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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone replaced the woofer in the factory subwoofer cabinet? I see a thread with a new box and a Kicker shallow woofer, but I'm curious what would fit in the factory box. IMO given the size of the cabin and the sound deadening already in place a decent 8" or even 7" woofer would do fine down low for my musical tastes.

The real problems with the factory "premium" setup are in the upper bass, which is expected given that the modal region in a car is much higher in frequency than the modal region in a home living room. I bet the factory system has 30dB frequency response swings from 100-400Hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How'd you get the cosmetic panel off? Also, is the baffle big enough for an 8? Would be nice to reuse the stock cabinet. I have a few I could try out if I could figure out how to get to the enclosure without breaking something (Alpine Type R, Peerless XLS8, ScanSpeak Revelator).

Also, since there seems to be interest I could take some measurements of the stock woofer.
 

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You do realize that the subwoofer adds very, very little to the sound plane. What the CT200h is missing, even with the Premium sound are the lower bass frequencies which are not provided by a subwoofer. The Subwoofer is for vibrations for those who like to "feel" their music and not exactly listen to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You do realize that the subwoofer adds very, very little to the sound plane.
You are incorrect. I suspect you're one of those people who's never heard a truly full-range home or car system set up for high-fidelity reproduction. Lots of people misuse tools, or prefer lower fidelity reproduction (eg Beats n Bose). That says nothing about what competent hands can do with the same tools.

What the CT200h is missing, even with the Premium sound are the lower bass frequencies which are not provided by a subwoofer. ***
You mean the "upper bass." You're doing nothing but less eloquently parroting what I wrote in the second paragraph of the OP. Fwiw, I plan to fix that with much better midbasses in the doors, and eq.




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You are incorrect. I suspect you're one of those people who's never heard a truly full-range home or car system set up for high-fidelity reproduction. Lots of people misuse tools, or prefer lower fidelity reproduction (eg Beats n Bose). That says nothing about what competent hands can do with the same tools.



You mean the "upper bass." You're doing nothing but less eloquently parroting what I wrote in the second paragraph of the OP. Fwiw, I plan to fix that with much better midbasses in the doors, and eq.




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No actually I understand music very well and the audio in the CT200h is pure junk. My home system is far superior with Marantz, Definitive Technology and yes an SVS sub. But a sub is only for very low frequencies and is way,way overrated.

And by the way, I wasn't parroting you because I didn't read what you wrote.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
No actually I understand music very well and the audio in the CT200h is pure junk. My home system is far superior with Marantz, Definitive Technology and yes an SVS sub. But a sub is only for very low frequencies and is way,way overrated.
Try a competent setup and get back to us. Start with better speakers, learn how to place them, then work your way into multisubs. Marantz sells overpriced commodity parts, but they're good looking and perform well enough. SVS makes a good sub, but for most situations a single subwoofer is inadequate to address the problem of smooth frequency response in the modal region of a small room.

For some actually thoughtful content on the role of subwoofers in a home system, see here. Obviously, in a car things are a little different because (as I wrote above, had you bothered to read before committing fingers to keyboard) the modal region in a car is higher up in frequency than it is in a living room, because the transition region depends on the volume of the "room."

And by the way, I wasn't parroting you because I didn't read what you wrote.
Well, that's rude. No wonder you posted something not only ignorant, but also completely out of the scope of the inquiry. If you don't have the analytic capacity to understand the scope of the inquiry and/or don't have anything to contribute that's within the actual scope of the inquiry, please find another thread.



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i want to keep stock radio and add a subwoofer to make AM radio sound better
what is the best option for me?
 

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I installed a jl w7 8" woofer in the stock housing with no problem. Only minor trimming was needed. Even though it was just 1 8" woofer, it was more than adequate to provide me with all the bass I need.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I installed a jl w7 8" woofer in the stock housing with no problem. Only minor trimming was needed. Even though it was just 1 8" woofer, it was more than adequate to provide me with all the bass I need.
Really, there's that much depth? (Maybe Jake at Sundown has some monster 8 now that's deeper than an 8W7, but I've never personally seen a deeper 8.)

The stock cabinet is stout enough to withstand a super-heavy very long throw driver like a Jelli 8w7?

Any idea of the stock cab's internal volume?


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I had to push the stock housing out a bit to make it fit but you can't really tell a difference when done.
Like I said "....but you can't really tell a difference when done. ...". Work on the front plane to maintain timbre. Replace the front door speakers with a good co-axial or tri-axial speaker to add brilliance and depth to the mid-range (300 -5000 Hz) and lower frequencies (80-300 Hz). Another problem, the stock amplification is so underpowered you clip if you turn up the volume at all. So once you replace the speakers and then second add amplification and then third replace the OEM head unit ( if you are looking to improve AM/FM/XM) then as a fourth and final step add a very good powered subwoofer, such as JL Audio 8W7AE ( 16-80,100Hz,120Hz, even up to 150 Hz depending on the Cross-over) and then you can feel the power. Remember power is logarithmic, to get a 3DB increase you need to double the power. to really sound good you need 300-500 watts driving a subwoofer, because it moves a lot of air. But you are correct, if you don't take the first three steps to improve you audio then adding a subwoofer, "you won't be able to tell much difference". As a fifth step in the CT200h you also might consider adding sound deadening material in the doors and under the body, such as Dynamat; the CT200h from the factory is a pretty noisy Lexus.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Like I said "....but you can't really tell a difference when done. ...".
You know, one thing that makes comments far more helpful is when the commenter displays rudimentary reading comp skills.

The person you quote made the referenced statement in reply to a question about physically mounting a very deep drive-unit in the factory subwoofer cabinet. You know, the actual reason this thread exists.

The statement was completely orthogonal to your misguided crusade, and no competent read of the statement could find otherwise.

While the rest of your comments are out of the scope of the thread, there’s enough misinformation in there that some reply is warranted.

Replace the front door speakers with a good co-axial or tri-axial speaker
There’s no such thing as a “good triaxial.” I don’t care if you’re talking about some dinky car-fi thing or the very expensive 8” Cabasse unit. There are expensive ones sold by “high end” brands, but that’s quite different from “good.”

Furthermore, the only good “coaxials” are concentric drivers that use the midrange or midwoofer cone as a waveguide, such as a Tannoy Dual Concentric, KEF Uni-Q, or TAD/Pioneer CST. There have been a few such drivers marketed for car-fi, but they’re rare because many of the features needed to make a smooth transition from tweeter to waveguide/cone are locked up in patents by KEF, Tannoy, and Pioneer. (One really good set marketed for car-fi were the KEF KAR units designed by Andrew Jones and made in the UK in the early 1990s.)

Never mind that one thing the CT200h “premium” system really gets right – due to very good LCR speaker placement, not parts quality – is imaging. Ditching the dash speakers for full-range units low in the doors ruins that. It seems to me the best solution is to upgrade the parts in the stock LCR dash positions, and fit dedicated midbasses in the doors. FWIW, I plan to use some 3” KEF Uni-Qs I have on hand in my dash. They’re not expensive; one can often find the little eggs I from which I pulled these drivers for under $200/trio shipped on eBay, and with suitable processing the stock passive should be adequate. True, they’re far from KEF’s best drivers, but they’re still a marked improvement over most 3” coaxes marketed for car-fi, and the polymer basket + neo magnets for both midrange and tweeter makes them fairly light.

such as JL Audio 8W7AE ( 16-80,100Hz,120Hz, even up to 150 Hz depending on the Cross-over)
You’ve obviously never played with a Jello W7, because while your crossover recommendations would be great for some long throw 8” drivers (e.g. ScanSpeak Revelator, Alpine Type R, Peerless XLS, Dayton Reference, TangBand W8-740) they’re inappropriate for the W7.

Yes, the W7 are probably the best air pumps for their size in the world. However, for some reason JL refuses to join the rest of the world and design shorting rings into their woofer motors. So the W7s have very high inductance. Unfortunately, that means their frequency response has a big hump in the 50-100Hz octave and a steep rolloff above that. So they’re best limited to below 80Hz or so in a car, and below 40Hz or so in a home system. It’s a pity, because I don’t think there’s another driver on the market that has both such a long stroke and such incredible motor linearity over that stroke. A Jello W7 with a copper sleeve on the motor (like the Aurasound drivers I use in my multisub system at home, and that Magico uses in their five-figure subwoofers) would probably be the best bass driver in the world.
 

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DS21,

Thank for the kind words on my subwoofer sarcasm. My point was unless you make other changes; just changing the subwoofer won’t really improve the audio.
Okay my level of good, is your level of excellent. This this the type of tri-axial system I was referring to : http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/doc/hertz_hienergy_hsk163.pdf
Concerning home theater systems, you mentioned multi-sub. If you use the proper sub then one is more than sufficient’ maybe you need to walk your sub to get the proper location. Try upgrading to an excellent SVS, such as a PB 12-Plus or the PB 13-Ultra. And if that isn’t enough get the JL Audio Gotham g213-GLOSS sub. But if you really want the best and most expensive, and price is no object get the Wilson Audio Thor’s Hammer. Any of these are a lot better than a couple of Dayton Audio SUB-1000s.
Take care with your subwoofer upgrade quest.

MidCow3
 

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Hey Cyber formula, what exact modifications to the cabinet did you make to fit the Jl 8W7?

Did you just build up the baffle area to make up for the lack of depth? A picture would help me tremendously, thank you.

Midcow, this whole thing so subjective, I prefer a lot of bass in my music regardless of what the artist intended, what the audiophiles say or what you say, I HEAR bass not just feel it... without bass music is worse than silence... After all it is my ears and brain that prefer it one way over the other and I have tried full aftermarket setups before, stock setups with stock subs and stock setups with aftermarket subs and I would replace the woofer or add one in first thing in a stock system every single time.. Personally I can enjoy songs that are 80% bass with a good subwoofer, so if the base doesn't add much what am I listening to lol??

I think there is a whole section of people that are completely deaf to the lower frequency sounds, I think my GF has this issue because she is never impressed with awesome bass setups when I am blown away and could just sit there and listen that sub purr for days, and she couldn't care less, I particularly love the JL subs.
 

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Hey guys, I just got a 2012 CT200h and am loving it. But i want alittle more bass.... Was wondering if its possible to replace my current factory sub with something alittle bit bigger and have it powered by the factory amp? What do you guys use? I saw the someone post about the JL 6W3. Id really like to fit a 8" in but will the factory spot hold one that big? Sorry i dont know much about car subs anymore...
 

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The stock amp is so weak, I can't see it doing anything with an aftermarket sub. Everyone that I know that has replaced the stock sub has coupled that with a new much more powerful amp as well. Personally I don't have the stock sub, so I installed a 300 W 10in sub in a separate cabinet.
 

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DS21,


Concerning home theater systems, you mentioned multi-sub. If you use the proper sub then one is more than sufficient’ maybe you need to walk your sub to get the proper location.
MidCow3
MidCow3. You really don't know what you are talking about. You should just stop. Please.
 
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