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Remote engine starter

50K views 28 replies 20 participants last post by  NewShockerGuy 
#1 ·
Hi, I see remote engine starters available from Lexus and on Ebay. I have a premium, but otherwise basic Ct. IS the receiver that takes the signal already installed onaboard? (ie, what else do I need to buy in addition to the remote key?)
 
#2 ·
Good question, I doubt it though. Can you share the ebay link so we can read the description? It should tell you what it comes with, maybe that will help.
 
This post has been deleted
#3 ·
Remote starter will work as in any case. Typically our hybrids require engine-warm up time even in the middle of summer. So yes, the engine will fire up. And depending on when you arrive to your vehicle, the IC engine may or may not still be on.
 
#4 ·
I'm also still waiting on my CT to arrive, but my last two cars were hybrids and I have had the remote engine starter pre-installed before I took delivery, so I can't comment about the after-market kits. Mine were both PIO's (Port Installed Option), so they are not "factory installed", but installed after arriving in the USA at the processing center (NOT the dealer). They work great with the Hybrid system. (OK, there are the "purist" out there that state that it's "wrong" to put a remote start on a hybrid and waste that gas - but this is MY car. End of discussion).

I use the "LOCK" button on the Key Fob to start the car remotely. Click, Click, Click-AND-HOLD (all in about 3~5 seconds). You will hold the lock button for 5~10 seconds on your last click -- or until you see the parking lights flash (Prius 3G & Hybrid Highlander). The Hybrid system does its obligatory systems check and when all's right with itself it engages the starter on the internal cumbustion engine (usually takes ~12 seconds as with any normal startup sequence). Note: if you've just driven the car and its all warmed up and happy, then the gas engine may not engage until the HVAC system demands more heat than what the radiator is holding to meet your required temperature setting. The car will "run and stop" the gas engine as necessary to keep the set temperature, again, as it normally does.

The system will run for ~15 minutes and shut down (just so that your car doesn't run all day in case you've managed to click the key fob in your pants pocket during an 8:00 am meeting). I can cycle the remote start 3 times before it dis-allows the remote starting process. Once I open the car door and close/lock it back, the remote start system resets.

Experience and some odd bits:
a. The range of the remote start is not the best - and depending on your environment, can be downright dismal. Park your car where there is good "line-of-sight" so the signal reaches the car and you're all good.
b. The key fob "click" timing is somewhat critical to "get right" and once you find the right pattern and speed, it's easy to repeat.
c. Set the HVAC to how you want it to come on BEFORE you turn off the car. I set mine to "defrost" and turn on the seat heater.
d. Back to the range issue - and this is the (really) odd bit: I read of a way to "extend" the range and tried it -- with some success, (but, be warned - your fellow employees will think you've gone off the deep end if you do this where they can see you).
Step 1: Open your mouth.
Step 2: put the key fob between your teeth and
Step 3: while pointing your mouth towards the car....
Step 4: click 3 times (holding on the last one)
Step 5: watch as the car responds.

Try it. Get "just out of range" of the remote key (nothing happens when you click lock/unlock) and (hopefully when no one is watching) perform the above procedure. I didn't believe it at first and thought that the guys with Candid Camera (you older guys will know what I'm talking about) was watching and waiting to jump out from behind a desk (or a tree) with "tape rolling" as I made a fool out of myself - -- but it actually works for me.

Remote Start? Don't leave home without it.
 
#22 ·
I'm also still waiting on my CT to arrive, but my last two cars were hybrids and I have had the remote engine starter pre-installed before I took delivery, so I can't comment about the after-market kits. Mine were both PIO's (Port Installed Option), so they are not "factory installed", but installed after arriving in the USA at the processing center (NOT the dealer). They work great with the Hybrid system. (OK, there are the "purist" out there that state that it's "wrong" to put a remote start on a hybrid and waste that gas - but this is MY car. End of discussion).

I use the "LOCK" button on the Key Fob to start the car remotely. Click, Click, Click-AND-HOLD (all in about 3~5 seconds). You will hold the lock button for 5~10 seconds on your last click -- or until you see the parking lights flash (Prius 3G & Hybrid Highlander). The Hybrid system does its obligatory systems check and when all's right with itself it engages the starter on the internal cumbustion engine (usually takes ~12 seconds as with any normal startup sequence). Note: if you've just driven the car and its all warmed up and happy, then the gas engine may not engage until the HVAC system demands more heat than what the radiator is holding to meet your required temperature setting. The car will "run and stop" the gas engine as necessary to keep the set temperature, again, as it normally does.

The system will run for ~15 minutes and shut down (just so that your car doesn't run all day in case you've managed to click the key fob in your pants pocket during an 8:00 am meeting). I can cycle the remote start 3 times before it dis-allows the remote starting process. Once I open the car door and close/lock it back, the remote start system resets.

Experience and some odd bits:
a. The range of the remote start is not the best - and depending on your environment, can be downright dismal. Park your car where there is good "line-of-sight" so the signal reaches the car and you're all good.
b. The key fob "click" timing is somewhat critical to "get right" and once you find the right pattern and speed, it's easy to repeat.
c. Set the HVAC to how you want it to come on BEFORE you turn off the car. I set mine to "defrost" and turn on the seat heater.
d. Back to the range issue - and this is the (really) odd bit: I read of a way to "extend" the range and tried it -- with some success, (but, be warned - your fellow employees will think you've gone off the deep end if you do this where they can see you).
Step 1: Open your mouth.
Step 2: put the key fob between your teeth and
Step 3: while pointing your mouth towards the car....
Step 4: click 3 times (holding on the last one)
Step 5: watch as the car responds.

Try it. Get "just out of range" of the remote key (nothing happens when you click lock/unlock) and (hopefully when no one is watching) perform the above procedure. I didn't believe it at first and thought that the guys with Candid Camera (you older guys will know what I'm talking about) was watching and waiting to jump out from behind a desk (or a tree) with "tape rolling" as I made a fool out of myself - -- but it actually works for me.

Remote Start? Don't leave home without it.
This is because the fluid in your head acts as an antenna.

so I got a 2014 CT, just had dealer to install the remote starter than found out once you open the door the engine will be off so you have to re-start your car again!

anyone experience this and if you are OK with this stupid feature?!
Its a safety feature so your car doesn't get jacked.
 
#6 ·
I got the remote start and the dealer installed it in vehicle and it works through standard key. It runs the gas engine to warm up the vehicle and engine. Once you open up the door the engine turns off. Obviously this has lowered my mpg during winter as gas engine is used during warmup. But thats the price to pay for having warm vehicle and warmed up engine during freezing temps.
 
#7 ·
This may be a stupid question but do you only need the special remote to have the remote start ability or is there a module that has to be installed in the vehicle? I have a 2012 CT with the non-nav package.

Any car that i've owned in the past have had to have a module installed into the vehicles electrical system. If all you need is the remote to ( and possible reprogramming) start the vehicle, almost seems to easy.

Am i missing something?

Thanks
 
#15 ·
They have the install instructions online: 2011 CT200h: Remote Engine Start - Equally valuable on cold winter mornings and hot summer afternoons, the remote engine starter allows you to start the engine -- as well as activate your air conditioner, heater and windshield defogger -- before ente
Instructions: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/pdf/PT39876111.pdf
Manual: http://lexus.sewellparts.com/pdf/PT39876111_OM.pdf
It has a procedure to install but you need toyota techstream if you want to program yourself.

If you install yourself, the dealer could do the programming part in 10 minutes if you want to pay them to do it, but they will probably charge you for an hour.
To program yourself (without the dealer) you can find someone who has techstream already or buy a cable and program with your own laptop.
This would work if you need techstream/cable: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=291131947757
$37 and takes two weeks to get the cable from china. I bought my cable from that link and programmed my keys with it. It works fine with win7 64bit.

This is the registration procedure from the PDF to activate it.
6.Registration
a. Open the Hood.
b. Temporarily reconnect the
Negative Battery Cable. Do not touch thePositive Terminal.
c. Locate the 1P RES Diagnostic Connectors in the Passenger’s Side Cowl Area and connect them.
Note: Once connected you will have 10 minutes to complete this section, steps d–aa.
d. Close all doors.
e. Place the Vehicle in Park (P) or Neutral (N) position.
f. Cycle the “ENGINE START STOP” Button from OFF to
Note: One cycle consists of:
OFF->Accessory->ON
This is equivalent to pressing the “ENGINE START STOP” Button 14 times.
Look: For the Hazard Lights to Flash Once.
g. Start the Engine.
h. After 10 seconds stop the Engine
i. Connect the Techstream Notebook to the Vehicle’s Diagnostic Port.
j. With the Smart Key in your possession, press the “ENGINE START STOP” Button twice to select the Ignition “ON” position.
k. Start the TIS Techstream Application by clicking on the shortcut located on the Desktop.
l. Click “Connect to Vehicle.”
m. Confirm that the information displayed on the Vehicle Connection Wizard is correct for the vehicle. If not verify that the Techstream is properly connected.
n. Select “Others”
o. Click “Next.”


p. Select “Smart Access.”
q. Click ---> (arrow).
r. Click on “Utility.”
s. Select “ECU Communication ID Registration.”
t. Click ---> (arrow).
u. Click “Next>.
v. Select “Remote Engine Starter.”
w. Click “Next>.”
CONFIRM: that the ECU Communication ID was completed successfully.
x. Click “Exit.
y. Click "close".
z. Exit the vehicle.
aa. Close the Hood.
ab. Look for the Hazards to flash twice.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Sorry for resurrecting a year-old post..
I've just installed both the Glass Breakage Sensor (GBS) and the Remote Engine Starter (RES) as documented.. I'm having some trouble with the registration. I can't find any documentation on which one should be closest to the existing vehicle plug, but it appears they get connected in series..
EDIT:
Sorry, at step "f." I was cycling to OFF in the final stroke rather than leaving it in ON and starting the engine from there. Got it working!!!
The RES is connected before the GBS in my setup and both test good!
 
#17 ·
Just adding my experience....

Just had a local shop install an aftermarket starter for 500 dollars all in out the door. Just press the lock button on the factory remote 3 times and the car starts right up. It can be programmed to run for 15 or 20 mins before shutting itself off. Like in most (if not all) Lexus' and Toyota's, there is no take-over feature. Not a big deal.
 
#18 ·
Call me a stupid Euroboy, but I don't get the point of remote engine start. Here we have a very economical car, that does umpteen miles/KMs to the gallon/litre, thanks to its sophisticated technology with which you don't even have to start the engine just to move the car from a stop, and then you start the engine while you're not even in the car and make it burn dinosaur juice while it's just sitting there for... what exactly? I honestly don't get this. Can somebody explain?
 
#19 · (Edited)
I believe you may have asked this on another forum. I have cut and pasted my response:

Several reasons......

1. It allows the car to warm up the interior
2. Allows the car to dehumidify/de-ice the windshield
3. Allows the car to cool down with ac in the hot Summer sun - especially a car that has a black interior.
4. Allows the car to continue running while it's locked when wanting to maintain a warm or cool interior....(ie: running into the store or getting your kids from inside the school
5. Gives the seat warmers time to work their magic!
6. etc
7. etc

 
#21 ·
It's all about convenience. That's all the remote starter accomplishes. Again, the starter also allows for cooling as well. When I finish a shift on a hot summer day, and I'm still wearing my dark blue uniform, a cool interior is a very welcome convenience, and efficiency is the last thing I'm thinking about...
r
 
#23 ·
Does anyone know if the OEM remote start system will work with 2016-2017 CT's? It says 2011-2015. Why would that be? Why would the last two years not be listed as to having it work?

Product Font Material property Screenshot Web page


I would MUCH rather go OEM than an aftermarket module especially since you can get the OEM one now for around $170 which is cheap.

-Nigel
 
#26 ·
Does anyone know if the OEM remote start system will work with 2016-2017 CT's? It says 2011-2015. Why would that be? Why would the last two years not be listed as to having it work?

View attachment 61552

I would MUCH rather go OEM than an aftermarket module especially since you can get the OEM one now for around $170 which is cheap.

-Nigel
Did you ever find the answer to your question? I was going to suggest the aftermarket remote start setup I use (w/ original key fob) in case you didn't have any luck.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I'm going to chime in here. If you live next to a freeway, with 75mph speed limit, as I do, it helps to warm engine first before hitting the onramp because you're going to save more in gas warming at idle (potentially). It may be that it's only a partial trade-off and that warming at idle uses a bit more gas than simply starting and driving to the onramp and hitting the gas. A cold engine is going to need a higher throttle position to get the same power. It's literally a few hundred yards to the onramp.

That said, I'd like to address the un-obvious aspects: Longevity (take this from someone who operates piston airplanes, works on their engines, and is engineering systems for increased efficiency in them): By warming the engine at idle (I use a ScanGuage II, and try to always warm to 100-F water temp before driving....and when I can't, because I'm really in a hurry, I try to drive easy on the accelerator for the first minute or two), you will increase the life of the car. Warming the engine before any load is placed on it is the most important factor in keeping the engine running well, and efficiently, long-term.

Ecology: Making this Lexus run for 350,000+ miles is my goal (I'm only at 132,000 since 2013). By not buying another vehicle, I am DRAMATICALLY improving my ecological footprint. Gas mileage be damned....if you drive a 25 year-old pickup, I'd argue that your ecological footprint is less than driving a hybrid and replacing it every 6-8 years. If you value ecological footprint at all, then you should warm your engine before driving it hard. Also if you value your time spent in repairs. (I admit that the engine isn't the only thing that makes the car go out of service...and warming only helps the engine) I know you guys will think me an idiot, but I only have to change the oil every 30,000 miles (you can search for my thread where I've posted all my Blackstone lab analyses and such). That makes for a lower footprint as well, and just feeds my minor obsession with efficiency.

I think warming could be best done by keeping the car in a somewhat warm garage (CO winters, I had it in a garage, so it would only have to warm from about 50F in the winter, and 70F in the summer).
Now I'm parked outside in TX, and it's cold at night, so the engine is "cold soaked" in the mornings. I'm looking into getting a remote start since it's just not practical to put a heater under the car to warm it, or plug it into a block heater, like we do for airplanes. I do acknowlege the post relating that a parafin or diesel heater would be most efficient. It would also have the benefit of warming other parts, but it's just not practical where I am (would be sitting out in a public space, get stolen, etc).

Anyone who knows about the different brands of remote starts, please let me know. Seems this one is really good:
12-Volt Solutions Remote start
Only downside is that it uses my OBD-II port, which has a ScanGuage II plugged into it. I've sent a message asking if they can make a Y-connector to retain an OBD-II port for the ScanGuage.
 
#25 ·
I'm going to chime in here. If you live next to a freeway, with 75mph speed limit, as I do, it helps to warm engine first before hitting the onramp because you're going to save more in gas warming at idle (potentially). It may be that it's only a partial trade-off and that warming at idle uses a bit more gas than simply starting and driving to the onramp and hitting the gas. A cold engine is going to need a higher throttle position to get the same power. It's literally a few hundred yards to the onramp.

That said, I'd like to address the un-obvious aspects: Longevity (take this from someone who operates piston airplanes, works on their engines, and is engineering systems for increased efficiency in them): By warming the engine at idle (I use a ScanGuage II, and try to always warm to 100-F water temp before driving....and when I can't, because I'm really in a hurry, I try to drive easy on the accelerator for the first minute or two), you will increase the life of the car. Warming the engine before any load is placed on it is the most important factor in keeping the engine running well, and efficiently, long-term.

Ecology: Making this Lexus run for 350,000+ miles is my goal (I'm only at 132,000 since 2013). By not buying another vehicle, I am DRAMATICALLY improving my ecological footprint. Gas mileage be damned....if you drive a 25 year-old pickup, I'd argue that your ecological footprint is less than driving a hybrid and replacing it every 6-8 years. If you value ecological footprint at all, then you should warm your engine before driving it hard. Also if you value your time spent in repairs. (I admit that the engine isn't the only thing that makes the car go out of service...and warming only helps the engine) I know you guys will think me an idiot, but I only have to change the oil every 30,000 miles (you can search for my thread where I've posted all my Blackstone lab analyses and such). That makes for a lower footprint as well, and just feeds my minor obsession with efficiency.

I think warming could be best done by keeping the car in a somewhat warm garage (CO winters, I had it in a garage, so it would only have to warm from about 50F in the winter, and 70F in the summer).
Now I'm parked outside in TX, and it's cold at night, so the engine is "cold soaked" in the mornings. I'm looking into getting a remote start since it's just not practical to put a heater under the car to warm it, or plug it into a block heater, like we do for airplanes. I do acknowlege the post relating that a parafin or diesel heater would be most efficient. It would also have the benefit of warming other parts, but it's just not practical where I am (would be sitting out in a public space, get stolen, etc).

Anyone who knows about the different brands of remote starts, please let me know. Seems this one is really good:
12-Volt Solutions Remote start
Only downside is that it uses my OBD-II port, which has a ScanGuage II plugged into it. I've sent a message asking if they can make a Y-connector to retain an OBD-II port for the ScanGuage.

The obd port should be split with the harness. At least with mine using a db3 module which is exactly what 12v solution uses the obd splitter is part of the harness that you buy with it. I think it's $15. I can't remember the part number but if you search on Directed's site it's on there.

Looks just like this:
Cable Gadget Wire Fashion accessory Event


So you can still plug your scanguage into it no problem.

-Nigel
 
#29 ·
Most def! You don't have to use a t-harness. It would have taken me all of 10 minutes to just tap the 3 wires in the main harness, but I don't like touching that if I can use something else and have just of a clean install..etc. I have drone mobile for our mercedes remote start. It's nice.

99% of the time I'm within eye sight of the cars so I never really need anything other than the oem fobs for remote starts.

-Nigel
 
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