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Discussion Starter #1
I apologize for the lack of pictures of this installation, but I just wanted to get it done.

First, I bought a rear view camera off ebay that replaces the license plate light plastic cover.
CAR REAR VIEW REVERSE CAMERA FOR LEXUS CT200H | eBay
$17 shipped. To my surprise, this is actually pretty great in quality.

Second, I bought a rear view mirror with a 3.5" screen built in. The brand is Crimestopper, I am told Gentech is their parent company. My friend works for a third party that installs for dealerships and this is what they use. It's currently on amazon for ~$140 shipped.

On to the installation..
First you'll need to open up the rear hatch and remove the black plastic panels

Once this is done, you'll be able to access the bolts that hold on the tail lights, remove these and take the tail lights out.

Then, you'll find 2- 10mm bolts that hold the plastic piece that goes above the tail lights with the Lexus emblem. Remove these bolts, then remove the 2 bolts that hold the mechanism that opens the trunk. Once this is done you should be able to pop the plastic piece above the tail lights off.

Now you just remove that clear plastic piece that goes over the license plate light bulb and replace it with the one with the camera. I had to unscrew the camera, and insert the plastic piece, reinstall everything and then screw that camera back in.

Next, just run the wires though the inside of the hatch, grab power and ground at the reverse light bulb wires and run the RCA through the black boot. Once you get it ran through the boot, run the wire up to the front of the car.

Now to install the mirror.

You take the base of the OEM mirror, and keep wiggling left to right, left to right. Eventually the squarish piece will pop out. This will expose the part of the mirror that is connected to the car itself. There's a tab you press down to slide the mirror off.

Now that it's off just slide the new mirror on, connect the RCA, tuck the wires and run the rest of the wires down the drivers kick. Remove the plastic pieces under the drivers kick and this will expose a number of plugs. If the largest plug with the most wires there will be a few redish pink wires. Look for the largest one and test it with a multimeter, this should be your reverse wire. Connect the power wire from the mirror to this and ground the ground wire.

Put the pieces back together and the camera should kick on when you put the car in reverse.

Here's a picture of the camera


And one of the rear view mirror


Overall install time: ~1 hour
 

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That looks awesome, I like this one much better than the license plate mounted ones.
Is it easy to adjust the camera positioning? Does it feel sturdy, or do you think it will need to be adjusted regularly?

Where did you get power from? (for both, camera and mirror)
Where did you run the wires?
 

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Very nice.

I ordered the same item 2 weeks ago and should arrive soon.
However I'm planning to setup video via portable GPS device.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The camera positioning can't be adjusted, but the angle is pretty perfect.
It is sturdy and there's no need to be adjusted.

I got the power for the camera where the reverse bulbs are in the taillights and the mirror in the drivers kick.
I ran the wires inside the hatch, through the black rubber boot, and under the headboard then down the A pillar into the kick.

That looks awesome, I like this one much better than the license plate mounted ones.
Is it easy to adjust the camera positioning? Does it feel sturdy, or do you think it will need to be adjusted regularly?

Where did you get power from? (for both, camera and mirror)
Where did you run the wires?
 

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Can you please go into more detail on how you routed the wires through the headliner? Did you have to remove any of the weather gaskets around the doors to run the wires forward? How did the front pillar panels all come off so you could get to the Kick? Did you just use a FISH tool to pull the wires?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ken, I routed the wires by tucking them under the headliner. I removed the weather gaskets, tucked the wiring and put the weather gaskets back on. I learned the hard way but it's best to do this when it's not so hot because the weather gaskets have black caulk that melts in the heat.

I didn't remove the A pillars because of the air bags but I did remove the kick panel. It's fairly simple to remove.

I did use a fish too (just a long zip tie) to get the wiring from the hatch through the rubber boot inside the car.

Hope this helps

Can you please go into more detail on how you routed the wires through the headliner? Did you have to remove any of the weather gaskets around the doors to run the wires forward? How did the front pillar panels all come off so you could get to the Kick? Did you just use a FISH tool to pull the wires?
 

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It sure does, gives me places to start and work from :) Unfortunatly all I can do is work in the heat. My garage is 100+ by 9am thanks to the Phoenix heat and the east facing garage.
 

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Ken, I routed the wires by tucking them under the headliner. I removed the weather gaskets, tucked the wiring and put the weather gaskets back on. I learned the hard way but it's best to do this when it's not so hot because the weather gaskets have black caulk that melts in the heat.
Next, just run the wires though the inside of the hatch, grab power and ground at the reverse light bulb wires and run the RCA through the black boot. Once you get it ran through the boot, run the wire up to the front of the car.
The RCA was run completely under the headliner? So from the back hatch, with the weather stripping removed, you slid the RCA cable under the headliner to near the rear door which also had the weather stripping removed? then to the front door.. then to near the mirror? Where did the RCA connect to the mirror?

I didn't remove the A pillars because of the air bags but I did remove the kick panel. It's fairly simple to remove.
Now that it's off just slide the new mirror on, connect the RCA, tuck the wires and run the rest of the wires down the drivers kick. Remove the plastic pieces under the drivers kick and this will expose a number of plugs. If the largest plug with the most wires there will be a few redish pink wires. Look for the largest one and test it with a multimeter, this should be your reverse wire. Connect the power wire from the mirror to this and ground the ground wire.
Where was the RCA connected and tucked to? The rest of the wires were run under the headliner? How did they make it down to the kick panel? Pushed behind the A pillar liner?

Did your camera have a larger power box? My Sony Cam has a power box about 2x3x1.5 in..


I did use a fish too (just a long zip tie) to get the wiring from the hatch through the rubber boot inside the car.
Getting my camera cable to the power box through that boot was very hard. My cable had a small rectangular connector on it. Wasn't it difficult to push your RCA cable with connector through that boot?



It sure does, gives me places to start and work from :) Unfortunatly all I can do is work in the heat. My garage is 100+ by 9am thanks to the Phoenix heat and the east facing garage.
I did a similar install using a Sony camera. I like that his camera installs in the replacement plastic light cover. Seems like an advantage over the install I did. Another person did an install with a Cam using bluetooth to transmit to the monitor/mirror. That might be even a better option.

I didn't run any cables through the headliner, but thought it would be an option of getting to the mirror. I might like to do it that way in the future, so I'm very interested in his install also.

My install took over 8 hours I would imagine. I thought about if for a while too! I did take some video, so that added a lot of time. I can't imagine doing it all in 1 hour unless you've done it before. Even then 1 hour seems very fast...

I do want to put together a video of the install but I might not get to it for a few weeks at least.

My install is similar, but I drilled a hole for the camera cable in the back panel and in the back hatch. (I like the idea of his camera mounted in the light plastic) I have a grommet for the hole in the hatch. (also silicon sealed inside the hatch) My camera cable also runs up through the left side of the hatch and through the rubber boot... along the rear of the headliner... (also almost had issues with the black tar.. be careful!) and down to the area under the left small removable compartment. Since my camera has a power box, for me it made the most sense to run another cable from the reverse light along the same path as the camera cable to power the box. I mounted the power box in that area to the left of the spare tire. I ran my RCA cable from the power box along the door scuff plates (used a coat hanger to fish through the panel between the doors and fish up the left kick plate in front) then routed the RCA cable to under the center counsel. I mounted my 3.5 inch monitor at the back of the large shallow coin tray. Mounting it directly to the rubber tray. I ran the cable from the monitor under the center counsel on the left side between the plastic of the upper counsel panel sub-assembly and the left leather trim piece (Upper No. 2 counsel panel garnish). I got power for the monitor at the aux power under the center counsel panel.

I will try to post a few photos soon.

Good luck.. and have fun.. :)
 

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Here is a photo showing the monitor mounted and the cable running down under the center counsel. This seemed to be the best place to run the monitor cable down. I removed the left garnish, unstapled the fabric in two spots and filed a small crescent moon shape down about 1/8 in or less. Then super glued the fabric back down and reinstalled. Before I did the filing the garnish and cable both seemed to be stressed and the look wasn't clean. The "monitor in the mirror" is probably the ideal place to view a back-up camera. My location here seemed to be the best spot to install a small monitor. I paid only $20 for this monitor and it is not bad. ($55 for the Sony Cam - ebay) It has a strange bright white flash when it gets power though and I saw someone else had a similar issue for a monitor such as this. There are no back up guide lines. Not sure if it is a function of the camera or the monitor.

The monitor had a small stand screwed to the bottom of the unit. I opened up the unit to take a look and decided to remove the small screw so I can pull off the monitor from the stand easily. The stand is attached to the small flexible rubber tray with double backed tape. Seems solid enough and I'm pretty happy with the location. Slightly less access to the EV button, but not bad and one gets used to these things. The monitor can be lifted off the stand and the rubber pad is still easily removed for cleaning.
 

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Here is a view of the Sony XA-R800C rear view camera I installed. Lists at $199, Amazon $124, I got it after waiting for the right auction on Ebay for $62 including shipping. I'm sure it is good quality and might last longer, but viewing on a small low quality screen is likely not much better than the lower cost cams.. Have no easy way to compare.

cam1.jpg
[h=1][/h]
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The camera I had did not have a power box, just a power and ground wire coming out of a small 1/2 inch square. Since I caught power and ground from the reverse tail light wiring I did not have to worry about running that little square through the boot. I had a thick zip tie that I taped the RCA tight with and pulled it through the rubber boot.

After that I just tucked it through the headliner. The RCA was pretty long from the camera and went all the way to the A pillar on the driver side. I ended up getting a double female barrel connector and using another RCA to extend it to the boot. I popped the panel under the steering wheel (where the fog light button? I forgot what those 4 rectangle buttons are for off and have all my wiring there. That's where I caught the ground wire for the mirror and further down where the kick panel is where I caught the reverse wire for the mirror).

I wanted a bigger screen than the mirror but have no where to put it as I wanted to keep it close to OEM so I opted for the mirror. I was looking for a replacement center console thing where the oem nav goes so I can find a way to mount my own screen there but no luck and did not want to spend a ton of money at the dealer. I'm happy with the mirror for now but I still need to find a way to install an indash nav as I've installed one in the past 6 cars I've had.
 

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Hi RichD, we put in Gentex 3345 n the same camera u had fr EBay. We are now stucked at the kick panel, couldn't find a power source that can be always on for the mirror. The rear view screen will disappear every time we put in reverse. We live here at Phx, may be u can shine some light for us or I ll pay to have you or your friend to finish the last wiring for us. I hope u can help. Thanks
 

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Did most of the install yesterday and took me about 4 hours to do, was much more involved to get the camera installed then I expected. With some more detailed instructions I think a first timer could probably do this in 2 to 3 hours. Last thing I need to do is connect the mirror to a constant power source but have the backup camera working which is good enough for now.
 

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Hey RichD, this is skyrush from the other forum. How is the quality of the camera and the rearview mirror? How do you think it compares to a gentex? What do you think of the camera so far?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey forrest, sorry for the delayed response. I bought this mirror from a close friend who does 12Volt installs for dealerships through a 3rd party. He said Gentex is this brand's parent company. The only difference is that these get manufactured in China.

So far I love the quality of the camera and mirror. If I got the car from the dealer like this I would never know that it's not OEM.
 

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I purchased the exact same setup as the OP did, but paid a stereo shop $150 to install it. So just under $300 total for the installed system. I'm pretty decent at installing car electronics, but it would have taken me about 4 hours by my best estimate. They also proabably used an extra few bucks in cables and wires that were included in the install price I asked them to wire up the second video input to the center console so I can plug in an iphone. We'll see if I can get navigation on the mirror fed from a phone, or at least show a playlist.

I am pretty pleased with the results of the camera and mirror. My other car has a display that's quite a bit bigger, and the mirror display can be affected by glare from the sun. But overall image quality is great, especially at night or in the garage.

Anyways, thanks to RichD for the great info!
 

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Is there a cover for the wire from the mirror to your headliner? It looks like there is some sort of cover but I can't quite tell. I don't want a wire hanging down uncovered.

I apologize for the lack of pictures of this installation, but I just wanted to get it done.

First, I bought a rear view camera off ebay that replaces the license plate light plastic cover.
CAR REAR VIEW REVERSE CAMERA FOR LEXUS CT200H | eBay
$17 shipped. To my surprise, this is actually pretty great in quality.

Second, I bought a rear view mirror with a 3.5" screen built in. The brand is Crimestopper, I am told Gentech is their parent company. My friend works for a third party that installs for dealerships and this is what they use. It's currently on amazon for ~$140 shipped.

On to the installation..
First you'll need to open up the rear hatch and remove the black plastic panels

Once this is done, you'll be able to access the bolts that hold on the tail lights, remove these and take the tail lights out.

Then, you'll find 2- 10mm bolts that hold the plastic piece that goes above the tail lights with the Lexus emblem. Remove these bolts, then remove the 2 bolts that hold the mechanism that opens the trunk. Once this is done you should be able to pop the plastic piece above the tail lights off.

Now you just remove that clear plastic piece that goes over the license plate light bulb and replace it with the one with the camera. I had to unscrew the camera, and insert the plastic piece, reinstall everything and then screw that camera back in.

Next, just run the wires though the inside of the hatch, grab power and ground at the reverse light bulb wires and run the RCA through the black boot. Once you get it ran through the boot, run the wire up to the front of the car.

Now to install the mirror.

You take the base of the OEM mirror, and keep wiggling left to right, left to right. Eventually the squarish piece will pop out. This will expose the part of the mirror that is connected to the car itself. There's a tab you press down to slide the mirror off.

Now that it's off just slide the new mirror on, connect the RCA, tuck the wires and run the rest of the wires down the drivers kick. Remove the plastic pieces under the drivers kick and this will expose a number of plugs. If the largest plug with the most wires there will be a few redish pink wires. Look for the largest one and test it with a multimeter, this should be your reverse wire. Connect the power wire from the mirror to this and ground the ground wire.

Put the pieces back together and the camera should kick on when you put the car in reverse.

Here's a picture of the camera


And one of the rear view mirror


Overall install time: ~1 hour
 
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