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Jason, did you think about adding some sound deadener to the doors while you were in there? I was shocked by the lack of any kind of sound deadening in the doors (it's a Lexus for goodness sakes). I treated my doors and hatch and it made a difference, especially in the sound of the stock base radio. The front doors sound like they have a little more bass and the back doors....well you can still barely hear them :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Jason, did you think about adding some sound deadener to the doors while you were in there?
Good idea, but no I didn't do that. Now that I know how to get the door panels off though, I suppose it could be something that I look at one day. Thanks for the idea!
 

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Sound deadening your doors and panels will definitely help with sound. Not only will you keep out some of the road NHV out, but it usually helps with added bass and I always noticed a bit of increased efficiency since your speakers aren't battling additional noise.

There is some good reading on sounddeadenershowdown.com
 

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Anyone know what type of speakers come with the premium audio? I know it is a 10-speaker system but I still don't think it sounds that nice :( Was spoiled from my 335i's HK system.

Also, if I upgrade to decent/good speakers, will an AMP be necessary? I don't plan on adding a sub, just replacing what is already there.
 

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On my premium system, I kept the factory speakers. I used a JL Audio XD 700/5 5 channel amplifier. I also needed an Audio Control LC6i to sum the 3 front channels together since the factory head unit splits and crossovers the front speakers (dash, tweeter, front door mid bass). The end result sounds fantastic. The stock speakers sound great once you use a decent amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Anyone know what type of speakers come with the premium audio?
To my knowledge the regular and premium sound systems comes with the exact same speakers, there are just more of them in the premium system. The premium system has the basic 6 speakers, plus one extra middle dash speaker, two extra tweeters on the A pillers, and the dinky subwoofer in the cargo area. That's how they count the speakers and end up with 10 speakers. The premium system may have more amplifiers and thus be powering those speakers with more wattage, I am not sure about that.
 

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Yes the premium sound has the same speakers as the base. Just the pillar tweeters and sub are added. The 3.5 inch center dash counts as 1 of the 4 additional, even though if you have navigation it's used for that and voice activated command response. infinity 3032cf for the dash and I did 6032 6.5 inch on the doors with the CNC adaptors Leonard has in the thread. No need to filter the lows in the dash with the included capacitor the head end and amp already do that. For the 2 ways in the doors, angle tweeter up and set the crossover at 0db not the +3db for the best sound. With the door adaptor, leave the spacer out on reassembly otherwise the speaker cone surround touches the door panel and bass is reduced
 

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The dash speakers make a noticeable difference. Honestly the rear door speakers don't make any difference unless you are sitting in the back, you can't hear them from the front seats. The big change will be this weekend when I put Infinity 3-way 6x9's in the front doors.
The OEM speakers are pretty chintzy. As Shadow1 said giving the stock speakers some power ( separate amps) improves the sound. Replacing the OEM speakers improves it even more and to improve AM/FM/XM you need to replace the head unit. The sound deadening idea is also good, even though Lexus sound deadening is already better than a lot of cars. Here is what the OEM speakers look like, judge for yourself: Good Luck, MidCow3
 

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The Infinity have a built in cross over and come with an optional capacitor to filter out all the base. You don't need the optional capacitor. The head end whether base or premium filters the highs to the dash and bass to the doors. I used the infinity 3032cf's on the dash and 6032's in the doors. Since the premium sound has the amp under the passenger seat the difference with decent speakers is amazing. Also the Harman Web site has refurbished 6032cf 3.5 dash speakers for 29.99 shipped to your door. Best 30 bucks you will spend.
 

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Thanks for the response Leo, I figured as much but haven't seriously researched available head units since as I explained to you before I'm going to wait on that financial ledge until I'm ready to do it right. I'm guessing whenever the audio technology new model rotation occurs during the year there will be hopefully a plethora of better and compatible units other than the usually overpriced Mark Levinson unit.Kudos to you and whoever else has the know how and patience to tackle an audio upgrade,I myself will be taking the easy way out and writing a check. There's a installer called Speaker Works in So Cal(Anaheim) that does high end clean installations(read about them in one of my car mags and their work is solid).When I get around to installing if I can pick their brains and pass any tips onto this site,I will. I'm also considering having them improve the quality of the sound insulation throughout(I'm thinking Dynamat)even if it costs some mpg due to extra weight and can make my lexus a little more lexus like/solid(especially when closing doors a little too hard-sounds kind of tinny). Of course the audio quality would also benefit. Anyway, I'll have to envy you guys in the meantime....


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Alright, I just completed the installation of the Infinity 3-way 6x9 speakers, which means I now have all 6 Infinity reference speakers, which if you count speakers like Lexus does (woofer and tweeter separately) I now have 14 speakers! I will post a full write-up tomorrow morning. Initial impressions are pretty much what I expected. High and mid frequencies are greatly improved with the 3-way 6x9s. Turns out the OEM head unit does send some higher frequencies down there, as I could hear voice, guitar, and even cymbals from the 6x9s. The guitars are like a wall of sound coming at you now that it comes from both the dash and the door. The lows, well they are still pretty weak to be honest. I might even say that the OEM 6x9s have a little more "boomy" bass. The Infinity's are definitely a tighter more "punchy" bass response. It's such a tease though, there are parts in the music where I can just start to hear the 6x9s begin to open up, and then that's it, as the OEM head unit runs out of power. I really should be sending 3x the power to these speakers that the OEM system has. That being said, for pure volume, it's really quite loud now. I was able to turn it up well past where I would ever listen normally and I detected no distortion or vibration what-so-ever.

So all in all I am glad that I did it. If I was really adventurous I would install a 100Wrms x 4 amplifier. Maybe down the road. I have some other mods that I want to do first. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Oh ya, one more thing before I forget these numbers. Just for fun I weighed the OEM 6x9 speakers vs. the Infinity 6x9 speakers. The OEM 6x9, even with all that plastic crap on them, weighed just 14 oz. The Infinity 6x9 weighed 3 lb 14 oz! I thought you guys would get a kick out of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Here is the last part of the speaker replacement project, the front door 6x9 speakers.

1. Tools / Adapters / Connectors

The tools are the same as in the previous two installations. The front doors use the exact same speaker wire connectors. The speakers, being 6x9 size, do use different speaker adapters. I used these:
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
These work great for two reasons. One, of course the mounting holes match (for the most part) the OEM mounting holes. A second benefit is that the adapter is actually two adapters connected with spacers. These spacers have periodic places where you can run speaker wire through. This allows you to use the Lexus connector on the outside of the speaker like in the OEM installation. Without this feature, you would have to run a longer length of speaker wire somewhere where you can get it behind the door, so that it would come up behind the aftermarket speaker. A little tip, if you are using your own adapters or some other adapters that don't allow the speaker wires to be used on the outside of the speaker, there is actually a rubber grommet not too far from the speaker location that looks like it would be a good place to run the wires through the door.
resize_Adapter Bracket.jpg resize_Adapter Bracket Side.jpg

2. Door Panel Removal

Removing the front door panels is very similar to the rear door panel removal. There are a couple of differences that I will point out. There is an extra silver colored bolt in the middle of the door that is not present in the rear door panels. Also, the passenger door has the interior door handle to remove. I actually found this to be the most difficult part of the door removal. The service manual shows you where to pry to release all the clips. However, because the door handle cover is rubber, and thus flexible, it is difficult to get it to release. I got it removed by starting at the bottom with my plastic prying tool, and then working up towards the top of the handle. I had to pull pretty hard, but I finally got it off. Then you remove the door handle itself with two screws. You have to do this before you can remove the passenger side switch panel.
resize_Door removed.jpg

3. OEM Speaker Removal

Disconnect the speaker connector, remove the four #10 bolts, and then remove the OEM speaker.

4. Fitting and Wiring of Aftermarket Speaker

Interestingly, and similarly to the rear door speakers, the mounting holes look symmetrical, but they really aren't. That means that the adapter will only screw in correctly one way. Therefore, before you attach the adapter to the speaker, test fit the adapter to the door to find which way is "up". Then, you will run the speaker connector wires through the top hole between the two adapter plates. Connect the speaker wires to the speaker, and then attach the adapter to the speaker using the supplied screws.
resize_Speaker Comparison Front.jpg resize_Speaker Comparison Rear.jpg resize_Sizing Adapter Bracket.jpg resize_Adapter Bracket on Speaker.jpg resize_Wiring Through Adapter.jpg

5. Installation of Aftermarket Speaker

Installing the aftermarket speaker is straight forward, you just use the original #10 bolts. But there are a couple tips that I will share. First, I found that if you turn the speaker connector sideways, it will fit right down into the top hole in between the two adapter plates. This seemed like a great way to tuck it away and make sure it won't move/rattle etc. Secondly, the holes for the adapter bracket don't exactly match up with the OEM speaker mounting holes. They are close enough to make it work without any modification. Install the first two bolts loosely, then slide the adapter as much as possible to make the other two holes lineup as closely as possible. I had to install the last bolt at an angle until the threads caught, then I was able to straighten it out. Warning, the adapter material is fairly soft, so don't torque down too much or you could work the bolt right through the adapter! Lastly, I'll mention that the window glass runs right behind the speaker. If you have a really deep speaker, or use a very thin adapter bracket, it's possible that you might run into that window, so just be aware of it.
resize_Left Door Complete.jpg resize_Connector in Adapter.jpg

6. Replace the door panels, clean up, and you are done!

I discussed my initial impressions of the results a bit earlier in the thread. I'm happy with the sound quality and clarity of these speakers. I just wish that I had more power to give them to really unleash the capabilities of the 6x9s.

As always feel free to ask any questions or post comments.
 

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Thanks for your detailed install. The holes in the PVC speaker adapter will ruin bass response since there is an air leak between the front and rear of the speaker. Any thought to sealing the holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
The holes in the PVC speaker adapter will ruin bass response since there is an air leak between the front and rear of the speaker
Ya, I had originally thought the same thing when another member posted about the use of these adapters online earlier. But when I look at them, I think the ratio of the holes to the rest of the adapter is small enough that it wouldn't make much difference. If you are really worried about it, then you could use electrical tape or some other method to seal all the holes except for the top, where the speaker wires and connector go. The problem you are referring to occurrs when the back waves at the rear of the speaker make their way to the front waves at the front of the speaker, and then they can tend to cancel each other out. I find it hard to believe that the sound waves are going to go through those little holes and cancel waves at the front of the speaker. But then again I'm not a sound engineer. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here's an update after playing the 6x9 speakers for approximately 1.5 hours per day for 2 weeks. They have really broken in, and the bass especially is now much stronger than it was when I first installed them. There is enough bass that I think most casual owners would be pleased as-is without adding a subwoofer. Of course, I'm going to anyway as I want to feel it. But overall I'm pretty impressed that these speakers sound this good with just the OEM head-unit powering them.
 

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hey leonar40, where are you located?
 

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that's unfortunate!
 
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