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Lexus procedures say to

- heat the body (104-140 f) and name plate (68-86 f). "ensuring not to overheat"...
- put protective tape around the emblems (what type of tape... I'm not sure)
- use piano wire (with ends wrapped around wood blocks to serve as handles) to get behind the emblem and scrape off the double backed tape.

I've seen info of people using hair dryers and dental floss, and I used the same to de-badge a Toyota Matrix

I looked at the front Lexus name plate and from behind it doesn't look like there are any nuts associated with the name plate, so it is likely stuck on with double-backed tape or adhesive too... Wouldn't be so easy to remove as the other emblems as it is inset into the plastic some. EDIT-THIS LOOKS WRONG -nuts must have been higher than my eyes could see! :p

Good luck.. :)
 

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To remove front emblem (after removing top grille)


To remove back emblem


Good luck.
This was quite helpful, thank you. I needed to replace my rear emblem as it had gotten severely scraped. Compounding my issue was the fact that the panel it mounts to had been repainted and it wasn't masked off well, the effect of which was to partially paint the emblem to the car in addition to the adhesive...the paint had sealed any small gap.

Word of caution: The panel to which the rear emblem attaches is plastic, not metal. Be VERY careful if you're going to try heating it up.

I initially used the diagram above's method. It's a pit of a PIA to get the fishing line in back of the emblem because it is mounted in a recess. After fooling with it, I thought It was coming off way too easy. It was, I literally sliced the emblem in half where the two halves were joined together.

I tired soaking it is some Goo Begone (note if you open the hatch and use something to counterbalance it, you can keep that surface horizontal so your solvent stays put. No plastic trim tool, plastic razor blade or plastic putty knife I had would get between the emblem and the body panel....again the recess. It is was thin enough, it was too flimsy; if it was strong enough, it was too thick.

I wound up taping off the body around the emblem and inserting the just the tip of the smallest metal awl I had between the emblem and the body. I then pushed it in a little more and pried it up just enough to get it started lifting. There are two small locating pins at 3 and 9 o'clock about 1/3" in. Once you get past those pins, it "saws" off pretty easily with the fishing line tool. It did gouge the paint a bit, but only under the emblem where the body panel is plastic so it can't rust and it is completely concealed by the new emblem. The locating pins make that a breeze to install, but getting the old adhesive off sucks

I know this is an old thread, but it was the best one I located due to those diagrams, so I though I'd add my experiences to it.
 

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lol, I did the same thing when removing the rear badge. It separated from the part that stuck to the hatch to the actual clear part that we see..

I then had to take some goo gone and kept heating around as the goo gone would work around the plastic shell of the emblem. Once removed I had to clean up the 3m tape. Took about 30 minutes longer than what it should have if I'm honest, but it wans't bad. Just annoying that the two separated from each other...lol

-Nigel
 
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