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what is 30-45 second warmup ?

does anyone have instruction how to install the relay kit?? cuz the battery is all the way in the back, how do we connect it??
There is a spare direct 12 volt connect in the engine bay. Somewhere there is already a you-tube on it. When mine arrives and after I install i will post some pictures. Trouble is, it sounds like it might not fix the problem.

One other condition I had thought of, the ambient temperature. For the most part it has been in excess of 100 degrees. Now that I have seen some cool weather only in the 90s :rolleyes:; the misfires seem to be less. I will keep looking for common causes and better solutions to the problem.

Just one statement bothers me Probie said "I have found that a few (30 to 45) second "warm up" of the car goes a long way to ensuring that both bulbs fire off" . My question is, 'How do you let a Hybrid car warm up 30-45 seconds ?' . I turn mine on and the gas engine doesn't start. It seems ready to go immediately. I mean what do I need to warm-up; let me know and I will gladly do it. Thanks ahead of time Probie.

On to a brighter future "HID"


P.S. -I used to let my turbo" cool down 30-45 seconds before shutting the engine off :D

MidCow3
 

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Just one statement bothers me Probie said "I have found that a few (30 to 45) second "warm up" of the car goes a long way to ensuring that both bulbs fire off" . My question is, 'How do you let a Hybrid car warm up 30-45 seconds ?' .
After you turn it on, wait the seven seconds for the gas engine to start running. From an electrical standpoint, that's all you need.
 

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After you turn it on, wait the seven seconds for the gas engine to start running. From an electrical standpoint, that's all you need.
dgstan,

Thanks. :) Gotcha ;)

MidCow3
 

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does anyone have instruction how to install the relay kit?? cuz the battery is all the way in the back, how do we connect it??
You can get a constant power from the fuse box in the front. I have used the relay harness and have it attached to a constant power and it isn't doing any good.

It shouldn't matter with the warm up since we are experiencing the problem even with the car running and driving through a tunnel or parking garage and one of the ballasts is not firing up. I have had it while the gas engine is running and running into the same problem.
 

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When my kit wasn't firing up properly, it didn't matter if the car was cold/not warmed up or not. It also didn't work properly after driving for 30 minutes.
 

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You can get a constant power from the fuse box in the front. I have used the relay harness and have it attached to a constant power and it isn't doing any good.
.
dayn...that sucks...so nothing will solve this :(
 

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Well, i've tried to find some info about this problem (cause, i've ordered the same ddm kit 55w 4500k), and found this recommendations:
- change the fuse of the low-lights (add +5A of the original).
- sometimes it could be bad connection of the fuse in the fuse box, or lamp with the HID socket.
 

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I respectivefully disagree with both recomendations.

Well, i've tried to find some info about this problem (cause, i've ordered the same ddm kit 55w 4500k), and found this recommendations:
- change the fuse of the low-lights (add +5A of the original).
- sometimes it could be bad connection of the fuse in the fuse box, or lamp with the HID socket.
I respectfully disagree with both recommendations. My reasons for the disagreement follow:

Be very care if you increase a fuse size; you want the fuse to be the limiting factor in a circuit and for the fuse to blow (open circuit) when a circuit is overloaded. You do NOT want to put in too large of a fuse and have your circuit wires and/or circuit components melt!. Having said that the OEM low beam light is 55 W which dividing by 12 volts ( assuming pure resistive impedance; pretty valid assumption )equals a normal amperage ( current) of 4.5833 amperes. The OEM fuse is 40 amperes and is combined with several other systems ( fuse 23, P/I 2 page 546 owner's manual) P position control system, horn, head-lights (low beam), back-up lights and SHOULD NOT BE IMCREASED!

The DDM connectors are very positive connections; I have checked and rechecked the connections. This does not change the problem issue. It is not a connection issue!

I have been in email contact with John Sharp of
http://store.sharphid.com/product_p/ddmhid.htm the supplier of the DDM HID conversion kits and he is as interested in a fix as we are. He suggested maybe the harness would resolve the problem and I have one on order. More recently forum members have installed the relay harness and still have the problem; the relay harness would only resolve a low current issue do to restrictions of the wire size or electrical circuitry feeding the original OEM low beam head lights and now feeding the ballast.

I am still trying to find a solution because the HID light output is awesome and I don't want to go back to Halogen!
 

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I am still trying to find a solution because the HID light output is awesome and I don't want to go back to Halogen!
You could always just request a full refund and then just go with the Philips kit for $199.
 

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You could always just request a full refund and then just go with the Philips kit for $199.
i have the philips hid kit and having that problem :(
 

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i have the philips hid kit and having that problem :(
Damn, no kidding, didn't know this was a widespread problem regardless of the manufacturer. I think we need an electrical engineer on here who know's his stuff to chime in!
 

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IMHO

Damn, no kidding, didn't know this was a widespread problem regardless of the manufacturer. I think we need an electrical engineer on here who know's his stuff to chime in!
Just MHO I think the initial surge needed for firiing the HID is right at the limit that can be supplied by the OEM light setup. ...and I actually think that many others might not This idea was somewhat validated by the amount of devices going through the same fuse the low beam lights go through (P/I 2 40 A P position control system, horn, head-lights (low beam), back-up lights).

That is why I thought the harness would cure the problem, but apparently it does not. This implies that there is a lot a large amount of current draw when the low beam lights come on, so substantial that even a direct battery connection cannot supply the necessary amps. This is scarey. Some of the solutions of waiting 7 seconds until the gas engine starts and other devices have started seems to almost help. Meaning that possible some of the amperage draw is eliminated. Turning the lights off and on seems to help; why? Because some of the other devices have already intialized and there substaining current is less, possibly.

Because it was confirmend that Phillips HIDs also have the problem, it appears it may be the nature of HID fire-up current. If this is a HID issue, then everyone should be having the problem and possibly they are and don't realize it. Again just my humble opinion. You look for the commonalities 35W versus 55W, "auto" versus "non-Auto", Phillips versus DDM, Harness versus non harness, ambient temperature, NAV versus non-NAV, waiting 15 seconds then turn on versus immediate. What is the "root" cause and can it be resolved? Mr John Sharp of DDM din't have any good solutions other than possibly the harness.

Good HID lighting

MidCow3
 

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Just MHO I think the initial surge needed for firiing the HID is right at the limit that can be supplied by the OEM light setup. ...and I actually think that many others might not This idea was somewhat validated by the amount of devices going through the same fuse the low beam lights go through (P/I 2 40 A P position control system, horn, head-lights (low beam), back-up lights).

That is why I thought the harness would cure the problem, but apparently it does not. This implies that there is a lot a large amount of current draw when the low beam lights come on, so substantial that even a direct battery connection cannot supply the necessary amps. This is scarey. Some of the solutions of waiting 7 seconds until the gas engine starts and other devices have started seems to almost help. Meaning that possible some of the amperage draw is eliminated. Turning the lights off and on seems to help; why? Because some of the other devices have already intialized and there substaining current is less, possibly.

Because it was confirmend that Phillips HIDs also have the problem, it appears it may be the nature of HID fire-up current. If this is a HID issue, then everyone should be having the problem and possibly they are and don't realize it. Again just my humble opinion. You look for the commonalities 35W versus 55W, "auto" versus "non-Auto", Phillips versus DDM, Harness versus non harness, ambient temperature, NAV versus non-NAV, waiting 15 seconds then turn on versus immediate. What is the "root" cause and can it be resolved? Mr John Sharp of DDM din't have any good solutions other than possibly the harness.

Good HID lighting

MidCow3
I think you should ask Mr. John to send you 2 more ballasts to try out to see if that might fix your issue!
 

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MidCow,
I really think that you are "on to something." For what it's worth, thanks for your digging in to the problem. I agree with the idea that it may be at the max ability to supply the power needed. I have been noticing that over the past few times when i go to work (leave house at 3:15am or so) that after I get to the parking lot where I work, and I go to shut the lights off on the stalk the lights seem to fire just fine as a go to "auto" mode and then to off. This is in contrast to when I first fire the car up and it still takes a few times of on and off to get them to work. The work perfectly once on and provide great light and no issues besides that. I really think that you may be on the right track. But failing a solution provided by DDM tuning or an Electrical Engineer or someone from Lexus, I will still be pretty happy with them as is. I am NOT totally satisfied with them not working EVERY time you fire them off, but I can get them to work in a manner of a couple of minutes before they are needed.

Again, thanks for focusing a bit of thought and effort to a fix of this issue. I look forward to other thoughts and possible solutions that you and others may come up with.
:D
 

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Just wondering, those that have misfire issue, what is the production month of the car. Want to see if this is a problem of early production models and fixed in later models. Moreover, want to see if this is related to the amount of features on the car (ie, premium package or base model etc).


I have a May production base model with touring package and so far so good with Philips Kit + Relay Harness.
 

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This is very interesting. I don't have the kit, but I will chime in with some thoughts. Has anyone, especially with the premium audio, tried firing up their car without the audio system on? Perhaps people are on to something re: amp draw at startup and there may be a relationship between that and available features that came with the car.
 

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Do you think this will fry our current wiring with the draw it takes to fire the ballast? I don’t want my headlight harness to be damaged. I have the wire harness and still worried since my driver side ballast doesn’t always fire.
 

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Do you think this will fry our current wiring with the draw it takes to fire the ballast? I don’t want my headlight harness to be damaged. I have the wire harness and still worried since my driver side ballast doesn’t always fire.
The headlight harness (I assume you're using the driver side as it's closest to the fuse box) just provide power to the relay which then allow direct power from the 12V battery to the ballast. So the stock headlight harness should not be a concern.

Another note, what is the Amp rating on the relay you have installed? The one i'm using is 40A.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Do you think this will fry our current wiring with the draw it takes to fire the ballast? I don’t want my headlight harness to be damaged. I have the wire harness and still worried since my driver side ballast doesn’t always fire.
No - the not firing issue is probably related to insufficient high voltage output from the ballast. HID's require in excess of 20,000 volts to trigger them and start the arcing current.

If the ballast is defective and shorts out (unlikely) the headlight fuse will protect the cars wiring.
 
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