There are plenty of instructions and videos of how to install HID lighting systems so rather than
duplicate those I want to show how the the slim ballast HID kits can be incorporated inconspicuously into the CT.
The kit from DDM comes with all plug and play connectors.
The kit appears well made, robust and the connectors are well sealed.
I extended the 12 volt feed that plugs into the original headlight plug by about 8" to give me
more flexibility in mounting.
The red wire in the kit has to go to the violet wire on the original headlamp connector.
All the other connectors can only be installed one way so you don't have to worry about polarity.
I searched around for a convenient location to mount the ballast and chose the metal strip directly beneath the
plastic cover above the radiator. You can see all the components sitting on top of this cover in the next picture.
I then took industrial grade velcro with an adhesive back and secured the ballast to the metal frame under
the plastic cover. You will see in next three pictures the slim profile of the ballast is covered by the overhang of the plastic cover.
When the ballasts have been located the wiring can be run toward each headlight and hidden from view.
I also secured the high voltage connector block to the metal frame.
I used nylon cable ties in appropriate places to keep the wirring tidy.
The most difficult part of the process was installing the passenger side bulb since there is very little space
to get your hand in and install the HID bulb.
It helps a little if you unclip the plastic filler neck for the coolant overflow tank and just
move it slightly.
Everything worked first time and tonight when its dark I'll check out how much the lighting is improved over stock.
I've had no problem with heat the headlight housing volume is pretty large so the heat should be dissipated easily.
HID sellers advise not installing 55 watt units in small volume fog light enclosures.
I figured if I was going to effort of installing HID I would get the maximum brightness and the premium was only an additional $15.
The OEM bulbs are 55 watt so the wiring has adequate rating.
I ended up going with the DDM 35W kit @ 5000K. Took about 30 minutes to install, despite the fact there were no instructions.
The only thing I'd add here is that the radiator overflow reservoir easily lifts up and out of the way after you remove the two mounting bolts. Once it's out of the way, you have tons of room and there's even a nice flat surface down there to mount the ballast.
I ended up going with the DDM 35W kit @ 5000K. Took about 30 minutes to install, despite the fact there were no instructions.
The only thing I'd add here is that the radiator overflow reservoir easily lifts up and out of the way after you remove the two mounting bolts. Once it's out of the way, you have tons of room and there's even a nice flat surface down there to mount the ballast.
Cool, can't wait to see it in person once I get mine in. Interesting feedback on the yellowing of the DRL's after this. Very hard to believe considering how bright/white the LED's are by themselves, but I believe you!
Here's another shot with my 35W / 5000K setup. The color is quite different. There's enough of a contrast where it doesn't look too bad (to me anyway).
How hard is it to install the HIDs??? People have been telling me that it is amazingly simple. I hate how the halogens look... Might have to order some from DDM.
How hard is it to install the HIDs??? People have been telling me that it is amazingly simple. I hate how the halogens look... Might have to order some from DDM.
Mail order only because DDM doesn't stock the 55W ballast.
The stuff comes directly from China so you should receive yours sooner than shipping to the US.
No need for error eliminator, this is for vehicles like BMW's with a CAN bus.
The base kit is totally plug and play without the relay harness and any adapter cables.
I did buy H11 male connector cables (ebay) to extend the length of harness that came from DDM. But that was my choice if you mount the ballasts close to the headlights you don't need to do this. You can see where I extended the leads in the picture below.
However, I just ordered the relay harness (should arrive 6/28/11) since I did notice one time the driver side headlight on my wife's car didn't ignite.
That was two weeks ago and it hasn't happened since so I will not install the harness unless it happens again. The relay harness is only $15 so you may want to purchase it in case you need it later.
The relay harness allows the OEM headlight feed to trigger a relay that supplies a "strong" 12 volt feed to the HID ballast.
However, I just ordered the relay harness (should arrive 6/28/11) since I did notice one time the driver side headlight on my wife's car didn't ignite.
That was two weeks ago and it hasn't happened since so I will not install the harness unless it happens again. The relay harness is only $15 so you may want to purchase it in case you need it later.
The relay harness allows the OEM headlight feed to trigger a relay that supplies a "strong" 12 volt feed to the HID ballast.
The relay harness is cheap insurance in my eyes. It only takes another 5mins or so to install and cost around $15. I've always used a relay harness on every car that ive installed HIDs in.
Just got finished with the mod and it really was not too tough to do. I only really had space issues on the passengers side. Moving the reservoir out to one side really did help. I screwed up a bit by taking out the high beam bulb on the passenger side and then realized it by slowing down and looking at the difference between what I had already taken off the drivers side. The space to put the ballast and the power supply "box" was a bit of an issue. I, like you, used industrial strength velcro to put things where I wanted them. On the passenger side I ended up "stacking" the ballast with the high power box on top. I can't wait to try them at night. Those little "pop top" things that hold the plastic covers down can be a real pain however. I see a trip to the Lexus parts counter in my future to "resupply". Again, your pictures really helped, thanks a million. For about $60 and my labor I get HID lights!
Hey All,
After reading the posts on Club Lexus and Prius chat about the EGR Cooler being the ultimate cause for Head Gasket Failure on top of other issues, I have decided to do something about it. I removed my EGR Cooler this weekend and experimented with it, and think that I am going to get...
I just changed the front pads on my CT200h 2011. I took my time, it was about an hour including cleanup.
My old ones were almost gone at 117,000 miles. I brake hard.
Bought these pads "Bosch BC1184A QuietCast Premium Disc Brake Pad Set"
Came with all the clips needed. No squealing so...
Good day! Has anyone ever DIY’d on upgrading from the 2011 base model tach (no red/blue switch) to an F-sport tach (with red/blue switch)?
Also, what’s the part number for the f-sport tach? 2011 model.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Hi everyone
I am just sharing the experience when I upgrade my factory subwoofer. I was going to put a 6.5" sub but decide to go with a 8". I also want to keep the factory look by using the original sub enclosure. For electronic part unfortunately my premium sound system has only a 172w...
Is there some one knows where is the power source for the brake lights or (Wiring code)? I am planning to install a brake flasher on my 2015 Lexus CT200h for additional safety driving.
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Maybe it's because the ballast or bulb had to "burn in" as they call it?
