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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2012 CT200h with 58,000 miles.
I wrote several posts on the New Member Introductions and got some helpful answers.
Now I'm on the next step ...
The question is more about the electrical system than the mold, but I'm including both here, maybe it'll help others too.
I'm drying out the car (the carpets are, at least, dry to the touch) the heater works but the radio/ navigation and backup camera don't work still don't work.

After three weeks of heavy rain, I discovered several inches of water on the floor in the back, which could've been there for a few weeks. The radio and then the navigation/ backup camera stopped working, but I knew something was dangerously wrong when the battery had to be jumped and then when I heard crackling in the ceiling, which I now know from another post that it is likely from the amplifier under the seat.
I didn't even think to look for water until MartsCT200 posted a video of a badly flooded car. I called a shop and was told that with electrical issues I should take it to the dealer.

I did, to Marin Lexus. For $450, they said it is likely moldy under the carpets/seats because there was some visible mold on the seats and belts.... and wanted at least $9,800 but advised me to just get rid of the car because repairs would end up costing more than the car is worth.
The culprit turned out to be a single sunroof drainage tube; they cleared the blockage.
It passed a dozen standard line item inspections and I was told, though with no details, that they "found no electrical damage."

A shop in Berkeley suggested I get it home and dry it out and then see...
A friend with this problem dried her out with a dehumidifier, but the one I bought cannot be used with an extension cord.
After a few days with all the windows open and running a fan, there is no more condensation on the windows, and the carpets a dry to the touch.
It starts up and I was able to back it into the driveway -- no more scary cracking-- and there are no warning lights, but the radio/nav/back camera still doesn't work.

I called another shop and asked if there is a general electrical check that can be done and he said not really, not that would explain it and that finding out, never mind fixing it, could cost a lot.

I've watched enough videos to know that the mold could be cleaned up / disinfected for a lot less than $9K, and am going to ask some detailers if it can be done for a reasonable price, but now it is the electrical I'm worried about.

Does anyone know if there is a way to pinpoint the problem and is it likely an indication of more general damage?

With the devastating flood damage in other other parts of the SF Bay Area, I've read that in most cases, the car is just totaled. (One shop in SF was flooded and 30 cars were damaged.)

I would so appreciate any input.

( I foolishly canceled my comprehensive coverage when I wasn't driving during the pandemic lockdown and never got around to reinstating it. I did revise last Saturday, but too late no doubt, so I'm on my own.)
 

· Registered
Joined
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4 Posts
2012 CT200h with 58,000 miles.
I wrote several posts on the New Member Introductions and got some helpful answers.
Now I'm on the next step ...
The question is more about the electrical system than the mold, but I'm including both here, maybe it'll help others too.
I'm drying out the car (the carpets are, at least, dry to the touch) the heater works but the radio/ navigation and backup camera don't work still don't work.

After three weeks of heavy rain, I discovered several inches of water on the floor in the back, which could've been there for a few weeks. The radio and then the navigation/ backup camera stopped working, but I knew something was dangerously wrong when the battery had to be jumped and then when I heard crackling in the ceiling, which I now know from another post that it is likely from the amplifier under the seat.
I didn't even think to look for water until MartsCT200 posted a video of a badly flooded car. I called a shop and was told that with electrical issues I should take it to the dealer.

I did, to Marin Lexus. For $450, they said it is likely moldy under the carpets/seats because there was some visible mold on the seats and belts.... and wanted at least $9,800 but advised me to just get rid of the car because repairs would end up costing more than the car is worth.
The culprit turned out to be a single sunroof drainage tube; they cleared the blockage.
It passed a dozen standard line item inspections and I was told, though with no details, that they "found no electrical damage."

A shop in Berkeley suggested I get it home and dry it out and then see...
A friend with this problem dried her out with a dehumidifier, but the one I bought cannot be used with an extension cord.
After a few days with all the windows open and running a fan, there is no more condensation on the windows, and the carpets a dry to the touch.
It starts up and I was able to back it into the driveway -- no more scary cracking-- and there are no warning lights, but the radio/nav/back camera still doesn't work.

I called another shop and asked if there is a general electrical check that can be done and he said not really, not that would explain it and that finding out, never mind fixing it, could cost a lot.

I've watched enough videos to know that the mold could be cleaned up / disinfected for a lot less than $9K, and am going to ask some detailers if it can be done for a reasonable price, but now it is the electrical I'm worried about.

Does anyone know if there is a way to pinpoint the problem and is it likely an indication of more general damage?

With the devastating flood damage in other other parts of the SF Bay Area, I've read that in most cases, the car is just totaled. (One shop in SF was flooded and 30 cars were damaged.)

I would so appreciate any input.

( I foolishly canceled my comprehensive coverage when I wasn't driving during the pandemic lockdown and never got around to reinstating it. I did revise last Saturday, but too late no doubt, so I'm on my own.)
A couple of times over the years I’ve inadvertently left a vehicle window down and it has rained. I found the most effective way to dry out was with a dehumidifier on an extension chord, with the window the chord was going into almost shut with a towel blocking the gap. I’m puzzled why you can’t use an extension chord with your dehumidifier.
 
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