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Discussion Starter #1
OK...do I finally had them put in today...they are awesome...much brighter than stock (and I'm using 35 watt bulbs). Using 5000K bulbs...color is great. Very white...doesn't look like aftermarket which is the look I wanted...factory looking. There is a very fine purple line towards the top of the light beam from left to right and it's more visible when you are behind a white colored car. There are two areas you will see in the pictures where there is a little line (very thin) of no lights but only right in front of the car and not extending too far...not sure if everyone's bulbs do this. The beam pattern isn't as wide as the factory "yellow" looking halogen bulbs but plenty wide enough. They don't make my LED DRL' look yellow even when both them and the headlights are on. I've taken a few pix...keep in mind my garage door is a light yellow/beige color so they might not appear quite as white as they truly look on the street. What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I got them from The Retrofit Source...you can Google them online. The ballasts are their exclusive brand ( Morimoto) but they carry a 10 year warranty...they are also completely weatherproof....the guy I spoke with is Andrew. Their customer service is top notch and the company has a great reputation. The lights DO fire up perfectly in the AUTO mode...they don't look fake purple like so many of these Hondas and Acuras and Scion's I see driving around. I got the 35W 5000K bulbs. I am very happy and in fact not disappointed anymore that I couldn't get the factory LED's (as they weren't shipping that many of those cars after the Tsunami when I wanted one). Someone quoted on my other post "good luck fitting those ballasts" as they looked big in the pictures...in fact, they are not that big and we fit them against the side of the inner hood...so great that you can't even see them when you open the hood...out of sight completely. When we took off the top cover, we didn't even remove the pink canister with the fluid...we just removed on the passenger side two more of the clips and moved that air filter thing out of the way...install took a total of 20 minutes if that. Go to their site and check out some of the reviews.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php
 

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Discussion Starter #6
HID Headlamps Beam Pattern Head On

Here's a few shots...not the best as I took them with my iPhone 4S but it will give you an idea how bright these lights are for 35W bulbs...remember, these are the 5000K color...from what I have read, as you get to the higher up colors, the amount of light produced diminishes greatly...that is why people with the real purple headlight bulbs (8000K or higher) don't emit too much light...they use them because they think the purple color looks cool...Not to me. Factory brightness for an HID bulb is right at 4200...full light output there. So, I went a little bit more to 5000K but not enough to lose even more light output like at 6000K.
 

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Looking good, any head-on shots? Were the bulbs a direct fit? I've heard some other kits having fitment issues.

Is this the kit you got?
H11: Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Component Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc
I am also interested in the answer to this. I saw on their website another kit for $115 more with a Philips bulb and a Denso or Matsu****a ballast. It is a D2S kit. I'm not sure what that means or if it would fit in the CT200. Do you think it is worth it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I do not think it would fit our CT200h...but I am not sure. My 2004 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited came with HID's from factory. Recently (about a month ago), one light went out. It turned out it was the ballast not the bulb. Factory for Toyota is the Densu D2S (or D2R...the R is for headlamp enclosures like my minivan with a reflector enclosure--not a projector enclosure). The D2 mounts are the ones where you put the bulb in and then attach that big round thing onto the back of the bulb and give it a half turn...I don't think it would work on our cars as I don't think they make a plug and play kit for our cars...second, read on their site a lot of the reviews for the Morimoto...I realize that the reviews are posted on their site and what company posts bad reviews but if you do some Googling, you will find independent reviews that look pretty good for these things...the warranty and weatherproof sold me on them. Here's what I ordered and it was $120 plus a small amount for shipping.

Products

  • 1 x Adjusted Order Total $120.00
  • 1 x Pair: H11 Standalone can-bus harnesses $0.00
  • 1 x Pair: Morimoto 3Five H11 bulbs (5K) $0.00
  • 1 x Pair: Morimoto 3Five AMP ballasts $0.00
 

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I do not think it would fit our CT200h...but I am not sure. My 2004 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited came with HID's from factory. Recently (about a month ago), one light went out. It turned out it was the ballast not the bulb. Factory for Toyota is the Densu D2S (or D2R...the R is for headlamp enclosures like my minivan with a reflector enclosure--not a projector enclosure). The D2 mounts are the ones where you put the bulb in and then attach that big round thing onto the back of the bulb and give it a half turn...I don't think it would work on our cars as I don't think they make a plug and play kit for our cars...second, read on their site a lot of the reviews for the Morimoto...I realize that the reviews are posted on their site and what company posts bad reviews but if you do some Googling, you will find independent reviews that look pretty good for these things...the warranty and weatherproof sold me on them. Here's what I ordered and it was $120 plus a small amount for shipping.

Products
  • 1 x Adjusted Order Total $120.00
  • 1 x Pair: H11 Standalone can-bus harnesses $0.00
  • 1 x Pair: Morimoto 3Five H11 bulbs (5K) $0.00
  • 1 x Pair: Morimoto 3Five AMP ballasts $0.00
Oh, great, thank you. I hadn't realized that we need the can-bus harnesses for our CT200. What exactly are these used for? The price must have gone up since you ordered, the kits are now $150 plus shipping.
 

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I was just on their website and noticed this statement in the description of the H11 bulbs: "Quartz glass minimizes the bulbs emission of ultraviolet light, which is harmful for the reflective surfaces inside headlights". Is anyone worried about the long term effects to the headlight housing from these aftermarket bulbs?
 

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Interesting beam pattern in your pics.

Describing your general upper cuttoff pattern as "concave" (lower in the middle) the beam pattern on my wifes car is "convex" (higher in the middle).

Another update her car has DDM HID's installed the no firing issue is very infrequent and hasn't occurred at start up in weeks, can't figure that out ?????

I still didn't get around to installing the relay harness.
 

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Oh, great, thank you. I hadn't realized that we need the can-bus harnesses for our CT200. What exactly are these used for? The price must have gone up since you ordered, the kits are now $150 plus shipping.
I don't believe the Ct has a true CAN bus electrical system.

Modern BMW's have CAN bus which utilizes low voltage electronic signals to communicate with all devices (local internet).

This allows features such as turn on , turn off, bulb working, bulb not working etc. to be performed and that information relayed back and forth by the cars ECU over the cars wiring system.

On a true CAN bus system the impedance of each device is critical.

For example on the BMW replacing interior lights with simple SMD LED's will generate an error code and they will not operate. This does not happen on the Lexus.

On modern BMW's a simple action of disconnecting and reconnecting electrical equipment can result in error codes being generated.
 

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I don't believe the Ct has a true CAN bus electrical system.

Modern BMW's have CAN bus which utilizes low voltage electronic signals to communicate with all devices (local internet).

This allows features such as turn on , turn off, bulb working, bulb not working etc. to be performed and that information relayed back and forth by the cars ECU over the cars wiring system.

On a true CAN bus system the impedance of each device is critical.

For example on the BMW replacing interior lights with simple SMD LED's will generate an error code and they will not operate. This does not happen on the Lexus.

On modern BMW's a simple action of disconnecting and reconnecting electrical equipment can result in error codes being generated.
Thank you for this, it's useful info I was not aware of. Should I order the Can-Bus harness anyway (it is an option with the Morimoto HID kits)? Will it have a negative impact if not needed?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I have no idea....I called Andrew there and told him which model car I have by Lexus...he told me this was the best kit available that they sell. You can get cheaper kits from a lot of different places. They also will accept returns if you get it and think it's not what you want but they do charge a 25% restocking fee (ouch). I love it...no problems at startup...bulbs are the same color for left and right (I have heard that some of the cheaper ones have to equalize a bit to be the same). When I start my car at night or am driving and the sun goes down (I always leave my headlights in the AUTO position) they come on no problem. Purple at startup for a brief moment but within 3-5 seconds, pure white...no flickering at all. These look like factory HID's if you were to have had them as an option on the car. I love them...they are very bright, very white....the only option I would think is to choose 5000K or 6000K...the light output above 4200K starts diminishing a bit as you go higher...so I asked Andrew which bulbs were the whitest without the blue color...that's why I went with 5000K. If anyone else gets this kit (Morimoto), let me know how you like it. Also, as far has the price, I think I ordered it back in December (early part of the month) and they had a coupon code for like 15% off when you spend a certain amount of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I do know that with the HID bulbs, because they are a gas that is getting charged (that's what produces the light...not a filament), they do have a break in period...they will tend to look a little different after about 25 hours of use and then set in (this is what I was told). I think the fact that these use a CAN BUS system (which WAS used on fancier cars like Mercedes and BMW in the late 90's and early 2000's), that's what separates them from some of the cheaper EBAY setups on the market today. I truly believe that you get what you pay for when it comes to these things...heck, you spent at least $35K on the car don't cheap out on a set of headlights that are something you depend upon when driving at night (not you but anyone in general).
 

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I do know that with the HID bulbs, because they are a gas that is getting charged (that's what produces the light...not a filament), they do have a break in period...they will tend to look a little different after about 25 hours of use and then set in (this is what I was told). I think the fact that these use a CAN BUS system (which WAS used on fancier cars like Mercedes and BMW in the late 90's and early 2000's), that's what separates them from some of the cheaper EBAY setups on the market today. I truly believe that you get what you pay for when it comes to these things...heck, you spent at least $35K on the car don't cheap out on a set of headlights that are something you depend upon when driving at night (not you but anyone in general).
Just to repeat - Lexus does not have a true CAN bus electrical system - it does not give error warnings when bulbs are out.
What your supplier is providing is an auxiliary relay set up, which provides "direct" 12 volts to the ballast via a relay rather than through the headlight switch and wiring.
This is similar similar to other vendors auxiliary relay kits.
Their kit also attempts to simulate the original impedance of the headlight system, using additional resistors, for vehicles that have a true CAN bus.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That is correct...no CAN BUS system comes on the CT200h. However, the ballasts I'm using use a CAN BUS connector to send signals to the ECU (brain) of the car...because the HIS's use less power than the typical 55 watt Halogens which come standard on the car, it is not a necessary thing to have when converting to HID's but certainly can't hurt..in fact, I think it helps with a lot of the issues some people have been having with bulbs not firing up or flickering. Why is a CANBus harness good for an HID conversion...
Some vehicles use sensors on their headlight power wires which connect to the CANBus network to monitor headlight functionality and report bulb-out situations. Typically, if the output voltage and/or output wattage on the wire is less than 12.8V and 55W, this triggers the ECU that is monitoring those power wires to send a signal to the CANBus controller letting it know the bulbs are out/defective. This in turn will trigger the dash warning light notifying you a bulb is out. An HID system consumes less power than a halogen system, so when converting to HID, the ECU will report only 35W power consumption which often times is less than the minimum threshold of the sensor's controllers acceptable limit, and triggers the bulb-out warning.
Here's something I found on a website:
Having a CANBus decoder equipped ballast can only help you when installing HIDs. A CANBus decoder equipped ballast will operate with a non-CANBus lighting system perfectly so having the additional feature and not using it is better than needing it and not having it. The CANBus ballasts are also manufactured with higher quality components to perform more efficiently than standard non-CANBus ballasts. To put it in a long-term perspective, if you ever switch to a newer vehicle you can transfer the ballasts to that vehicle because chances are it will have a CANBus equipped headlight sensor. Newer vehicles are more likely to use CANBus sensors on the headlights as the technology becomes cheaper to manufacture and implement.
 

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Thank you bondguy and audi4t. The discussion between the two of you made everything more clear and understandable.

Just to make sure I understand correctly, bondguy, did you have to attach auxiliary wires to the car's fuse box, or did you simply attach the Can-Bus harness to the wiring of the existing headlights? I believe it's the latter but just want to make sure, because if I have to attach wires to the fuse box I may re-think the whole project.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nothing wired to the fuse box...there are the ECU connectors (like a rectangular box) that connect one side to the existing headlight wire and the other side to a ballast...then, one cable from the ballast goes to the wires coming from the new HID bulb. Totally plug and play...these baby's really light up the road...get a set---you won't be disappointed. And, if u get them and don't think you can do it...you can either find a shop or return them. I had no idea what I was doing before attempting so I paid a shop who specializes in light conversions $50 to install...he asked me to watch him install so I would learn in case I ever wanted to remove them. We didn't bolt the ballasts down but tied them with those plastic adjustable ties to the far sides of firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here's a cool video someone made showing how weatherproof the Morimoto 3Five ballast is...totally placed underwater and it still ignites the bulbs and works fine...that's cool

 
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