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Discussion Starter #1
I have the base 6 speaker stereo. I have already ordered the Infinity Reference 3.5 speakers for the dash. I'll be doing that installation once it warms up a little outside. The question is whether to replace the door speakers or not with similar Infinity Reference 6x9 and 6.5 in speakers. For the time being I am not planning on adding any amplifiers or a new head unit. I have done a TON of searching and reading on here and other forums. There is a lot of info but it's very sporadic and incomplete. Things I would like to know are:

1. I read some threads where people have replaced their door speakers and were very pleased with the result. Other threads state that the stock head unit is specially tuned for the stock bamboo speakers, and any other speaker will not sound good. I would like to hear from someone that replaced their speakers and kept the stock head unit. The last thing that I want to do is spend a bunch of money and time, to have a bad result.

2. I read that the 6x9 speakers in the front doors require a speaker adapter bracket for the replacement speakers. However, I was not able to find any threads that had a direct link to the correct bracket.

3. Removing the doors looks like a real PIA. I hate it when car manufacturers require the entire door panel to be removed instead of making a removable speaker grill. Seems like more and more cars are coming that way which sucks. This is the part that is making me question whether to even try this on my own or to have the speakers professionally installed. However, I'm an electrical engineer and have replaced speakers on a whole bunch of cars in the past, so I feel kinda "guilty" about taking it in to have something like that done.

4. Crutchfield doesn't have any info on speaker wire connectors. I found some that might work, but no one seems to know for sure. If I do this I'll buy some of these and report back on whether these fit the door speakers or not. I already can see that they won't work for the dash speakers.

Speaker Wiring Harnesses For select 1992-up Toyota vehicles at Crutchfield.com

That's it for now. Thanks!

- Jason
 

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1) the stock headunit limits certain frequency ranges to prevent damage to the stock speaker since it cant produce in that range without distortion which causes damage. So yes its specifically tuned. Other speakers may just sound same, you will get the best sound from another headunit(one that outputs more power) and speakers, a sound processor and amplifying speakers or headunit amplifiers and speakers.

2)Crutchfield probably has this bracket/adaper plate/speaker baffel. You will have to look under another car like the prius. or make your own. Im not sure if another 6x9 will have the same mounting hole locations because the ones in the stock speaker are not "square", the ones at the bottom are closer together.

3) The doors are easy to take apart, 3 bolts on driver and 4 on the passenger and then its held on by pressure fit clips.I started at the bottom and then worked the side and the top just lifts up. Takes me about 3 minutes

4) that speaker wire will work for the doors 90% sure, the ones in the dash someone posted a connector that could work, the connector itself is smaller and more square
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the comprehensive answers!

1. As far as the head unit goes, I am planning on keeping it due to the unusual mounting location and the various features that I don't want to lose (steering wheel controls, hands free calling, etc). I know it's not the best, but I'm trying to improve things around the head unit as much as possible to help it out.

2. I've actually been emailing back and forth with Crutchfield and Metra to try and figure the exact mounting brackets and speaker connectors that will be needed. Crutchfield pretty much just said "sorry" they haven't been able to get a car to research and so wasn't much help at all. Metra is at least willing to do some research. I have forwarded them various pictures of the speakers and connectors that have been posted on this forum (thanks everyone!) and I am hoping they can piece it together from there. If I get some definitive answers that work I will post the exact model numbers of everything that I use for future reference.

3. You made me feel a little better about the doors. I saw one thread that had the pages from the shop manually and it was so many steps I was intimidated. The only thing that I am a little scared about is breaking clips and then ending up with a door that rattles over bumps when I am done.

Any special tools that help with removing the various sections of the door? I have some plastic pry tools that are used for taking apart electronics, so I am planning on using those.

- Jason
 

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1) you can use a sound processor and keep your stock headunit and using even a small 4 channel amplifier you will see night and day gains. and keep your steering wheel controls etc,

2) crutchfield said the same to me, basically stating that people volunteer there cars for reserach

3)i used a philips screw driver and the plastic trim tools. Its really easy, Theres a screw under the window switches, behind the door handle cover. IF you break the plastic clip theres like 20cents so no biggy, they shouldnt break as easily coming out since they are new. and not old and dry rot
 

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Discussion Starter #5
basically stating that people volunteer there cars for reserach
I wonder if you get some kind of compensation for doing this? If not then I can't image why anyone would just "donate" their car to be completely torn apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey man. No I haven't done it yet, but I will soon. I am going to do the dash speakers first since they are easiest. I already have the dash speaker replacements in house. Unfortunately I couldn't find any speaker connectors. I don't think the ones that you posted will work. The Crutchfield photo is a little hard to tell because it is at an angle. However, take a look at this great view of the stock speaker connector, and you can see pretty clearly that it is not the same. Particularly there are two versicle pieces that stick up into the connector that must mate into the other side of the connector. It would be interesting to see a picture of the stock mating connector (the one connected to the car wiring) but I haven't seen any posted on this forum. So my plan is just to cut, strip, and crimp.

PremiumFrontSpeaker1.jpg Photo by njedpx3 | Photobucket

It remains to be seen whether the other speaker connector will work for the 4 door speakers. I just ordered two sets of the connectors along with the 4 door speakers, so I will get to that one once it warms up more. Probably in a month or so.
 

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There are several levels of upgrades:
(1) Replace the three front speakers, the two front tweeters, and the two front door speakers. The OEM speakers are really poor quality even with the premium audio. You can put some coaxial or tri-axial speakers in the door and get much better low frequency sounds. The rear door speakers are not that important, they just add surround sound. The sub-woofer even in the premium is not that important .Sub-woofer is way overrated and is only for the lower frequencies 100 Hz and less, unless you want to shake your car and “feel” the music.
(2) The second level of upgrade is to add amplification to the front speakers, tweeters and front door speakers. This will significantly improve your sound quality.
(3) The third upgrade is the most expensive and the most complicated if you want to retain the steering wheel controls. Is to replace the OEM Panasonic head unit. Without replacing it your AM/FM/XM will still sound somewhat muddled because the signals it provides are poor quality.
The OEM Head unit does not limit the frequencies to prevent damage to the OEM speakers; it just doesn't have very much power.

However the OEM head unit does not affect USB and AUX input and after the first too levels of upgrades you AUX and USB input will sound awesome.

I had $2,100 work of upgrades on the premium system done and it significantly improved all of the sound. I did not replace the Panasonic head unit and it still doesn’t sound as good as the USB and AUX inputs. I did not replace the rear speakers or the sub-woofer. I did put tri-axial front door speakers and significantly improved the low frequencies.
Sad thing is that the Sony sound system standard on the Ford Focus ST, ST3 level is several levels about my modified CT200h audio system.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
However the OEM head unit does not affect USB and AUX input and after the first too levels of upgrades you AUX and USB input will sound awesome.
I'm curious about this, as I have seen this stated several times in various thread on this board. I don't understand how the head unit quality affects the XM/AM/FM, but not the USB or AUX ports. Are those inputs not running through, and powered by the head unit? Are they going through a separate amplifier and sound processor or something? And what about CD?

Thanks.
 

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I'm curious about this, as I have seen this stated several times in various thread on this board. I don't understand how the head unit quality affects the XM/AM/FM, but not the USB or AUX ports. Are those inputs not running through, and powered by the head unit? Are they going through a separate amplifier and sound processor or something? And what about CD?

Thanks.
When you have your audio come directly from AUX or USB it goes directly to your new amp and new speakers. The sound source is the digital and should be very clean. When you play AM/FM/XM the quality is somewhat dependent on the quality of the audio receiver used to pick up the transmitted signals. The OEM CT200h Panasonic audio receiver and antenna combination Lexus provides is not the best, in fact it is substandard when compared to almost any other car. Lexus does not provide a good audio head unit unless you are able to and do upgrade to the Mark Levinson level; in the USA ML is not an available upgrade on the Ct200h. Concerning the CD, it is better sound than AM/FM/XM but it still goes through the head unit processing. However even a poor head unit can produce pretty good CD sound. However, a high-end head unit will produce noticeably better CD sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When you have your audio come directly from AUX or USB it goes directly to your new amp and new speakers.
To be technically correct, even USB and AUX input has to go through the head unit at some point right? The USB flash drive is not a music player, so while the source is digital, the head unit is still responsible for reading the music file, decoding the music file, and then sending the signal out to your amplifier and then finally to your speakers. I mean, you still use the head unit to control the volume correct, so it has to go through there at some point.
 

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Yes but the interfaces are pretty well defined in ICs and there is not much variance. For example USB class 01h is interface type and used for Audio.
AUX is just a means to put direct audio signals into the pre-amp portion of you audio head unit.
The pre-amp section is about the only part you retain which contains the input selection and the pre-amp ( low level amplification) ; i.e. volume control.
You take the output of the pre-amp and fee it into a sufficiently power amplifier ( OEM is limited and can invoke clipping). However remember that power is logarithmic and double the power only give you a 3dB volume gain.
The only way you can get away from using the pre-amp circuitry is to completely replace the OEM audio head unit. And then it might or might not be possible to retrofit the steering volume and input selection controls. At least not without a lot of rewiring or reconnecting.
 

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No it doesn't... Radio (AM/FM) has bad sound quality because: a) it's radio, and b) radio stations add a lot of compression and other effects to their audio stream. CD sounds a bit better than USB, because you're not listening to compressed MP3's. AUX depends on your input source. The HU in the CT200h is very good imho. Just add some proper amps & speakers and you'll hear the difference.
 
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