I thought the transmission was sealed and oil could never be replaced !!
Courier CT update: first problem detected
Yesterday, after I changed my transmission fluid, I was told that I have my first real issue. A rear main seal leak. It's not bad, but were I to repair it, it would cost $2,000 at the dealer, and maybe a little less at my mechanic's. The dealer told me this is a 12-hour job.
My mechanic also told me this could have been caused by debris in the oil that made it past the filter. Since I run long OCIs (Oil Change Intervals, currently 26,000 miles), that may have allowed something to make it past the filter. He suggested I look into bypass filtration again. Long story short, I once looked into that to increase my OCIs but the cost difference wasn't worth the trouble. Since the filter on the bypass system is finer than the standard oil filter, it may be worthwhile just to avoid problems like this down the road.
I don't plan on fixing the leak right away, only when it's necessary. Just in case I run into another issue down the road where the transmission has to come out anyway.
My mechanic also told me this could have been caused by debris in the oil that made it past the filter. Since I run long OCIs (Oil Change Intervals, currently 26,000 miles), that may have allowed something to make it past the filter. He suggested I look into bypass filtration again. Long story short, I once looked into that to increase my OCIs but the cost difference wasn't worth the trouble. Since the filter on the bypass system is finer than the standard oil filter, it may be worthwhile just to avoid problems like this down the road.
I don't plan on fixing the leak right away, only when it's necessary. Just in case I run into another issue down the road where the transmission has to come out anyway.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Oil can be changed in the gearbox on a CT. it's not sealed.
Which rear seal has gone?
Do you mean the rear crankshaft oil seal on the engine?
If so there is no way that will cost $2K.
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Which rear seal has gone?
Do you mean the rear crankshaft oil seal on the engine?
If so there is no way that will cost $2K.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's literally called the Rear Main Seal, and as I understand it, it's the one that's between the crankshaft and the transmission. It costs $2k at the dealer because it takes 12 hours of labor, because you have to disassemble the floor of the car and take the inverter and transmission out to get to it. A private mechanic would charge closer to $1500. If I need it done, I'm going to ask him to do it if he's comfortable with it.Oil can be changed in the gearbox on a CT. it's not sealed.
Which rear seal has gone?
Do you mean the rear crankshaft oil seal on the engine?
If so there is no way that will cost $2K.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Right now, at 25,000 miles on the oil, with 1,000 more miles to go before my next oil change, I am above the full mark on the oil dipstick, so the leak is negligible.
That's interesting. I've never known the crank seal to go on one of these yet. A cheap seal yet an awkward fix.
Good luck in getting it done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good luck in getting it done.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Transmission fluid change is easy peasy. Buy (Amsoil transmission fluid) then make sure you have some jack stands and a couple jacks. I got mine up off the ground and then made sure the car was level. Then crawl under with a bucket and a 10MM allen wrench.
Loosen both before taking one or the other off just in case one is stuck so you don't get screwed over not being able to fill it back up. There is on drain and one fill. once you fully drain the transmission put the bottom plug plug back on and then using a funnel and a clear (clean rubber hose) connect to the funnel and weasel it down through the engine bay into the top fill hole. Way way way better than laying under the car with a pump for an hour until you have to go to the chiropractor and then a massage therapist. Yeah, I learned my lesson. And why and the hell do you go such long intervals with your oil!?! do you wear your dirty socks and underwear for months on end too? If you try and sell that you better hope they don't check the car fax. I would only do that on a KIA that I planned running until it explodes, not a sweet luxury car. I changed mine at 30K miles and it was solid black. I wouldn't listen to the dealer when they say "the life of the vehicle" You better believe it will end up on Craigs list with a add that goes something like this:
(Runs great, no AC, needs new transmission. $1500 OBO)
Loosen both before taking one or the other off just in case one is stuck so you don't get screwed over not being able to fill it back up. There is on drain and one fill. once you fully drain the transmission put the bottom plug plug back on and then using a funnel and a clear (clean rubber hose) connect to the funnel and weasel it down through the engine bay into the top fill hole. Way way way better than laying under the car with a pump for an hour until you have to go to the chiropractor and then a massage therapist. Yeah, I learned my lesson. And why and the hell do you go such long intervals with your oil!?! do you wear your dirty socks and underwear for months on end too? If you try and sell that you better hope they don't check the car fax. I would only do that on a KIA that I planned running until it explodes, not a sweet luxury car. I changed mine at 30K miles and it was solid black. I wouldn't listen to the dealer when they say "the life of the vehicle" You better believe it will end up on Craigs list with a add that goes something like this:
(Runs great, no AC, needs new transmission. $1500 OBO)
Careful with the oil specification... if your AMSOIL does not meet or exceed Toyota's WS specification you could be damaging the wiring and electric motors which also run in an oil bath inside the transmission. If the insulation or copper wiring is degraded by the formula of the oil, that is ANOTHER big job to fix.
Transmission fluid change is easy peasy. Buy (Amsoil transmission fluid) then make sure you have some jack stands and a couple jacks. I got mine up off the ground and then made sure the car was level. Then crawl under with a bucket and a 10MM allen wrench.
Loosen both before taking one or the other off just in case one is stuck so you don't get screwed over not being able to fill it back up. There is on drain and one fill. once you fully drain the transmission put the bottom plug plug back on and then using a funnel and a clear (clean rubber hose) connect to the funnel and weasel it down through the engine bay into the top fill hole. Way way way better than laying under the car with a pump for an hour until you have to go to the chiropractor and then a massage therapist. Yeah, I learned my lesson. And why and the hell do you go such long intervals with your oil!?! do you wear your dirty socks and underwear for months on end too? If you try and sell that you better hope they don't check the car fax. I would only do that on a KIA that I planned running until it explodes, not a sweet luxury car. I changed mine at 30K miles and it was solid black. I wouldn't listen to the dealer when they say "the life of the vehicle" You better believe it will end up on Craigs list with a add that goes something like this:
(Runs great, no AC, needs new transmission. $1500 OBO)
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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