Blown head gasket.Just for help. Hope i dont get in trouble for this

gvan2012CT said:

Here is where I've ended up. I know that the oil level was low when getting close to time for an oil change for the last 2 oil changes, and I mean considerably low (below the lower line). The coolant I honestly couldn't tell you because I hadn't monitored it because I hadn't experienced any overheating issues. The level was supposed to be checked and/or topped off at oil changes, but there was no mention of it by the service techs.

I haven't checked the oil level since doing the work that I've done so far, which is such: pulled intake manifold, throttle body, and egr system and thoroughly cleaned them. There was some oil pooling in the bottom of the intake manifold when I pulled it, and I went ahead and did the PCV valve after having pulled everything else. I've since changed the plugs and ignition coils.

Initial cause of concern was the hard shudder and CEL for cylinder 1. I changed oil and plugs after this and had it reset before having another hard start and moving on to egr work. After doing egr/intake manifold/throttle body work it ran smoothly for first few starts and then had hard shudder once more and CEL came back. CEL was now for a misfire in both cylinder 1 and cylinder 2.

Bought the ignition coils and swapped them and am still experiencing hard shudder with CEL being thrown. Haven't had the codes scanned yet.

I also haven't checked the oil level, which I would assume is still near the top line on the dip stick. The coolant level has remained, but it hasn't been driven more than 10 miles as that sound from the hard shudder sends chills and makes me worry for further damage.

I am curious to know if that drop in oil level has been that significant for you. That seems bizarrely simple.

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MichaelG65 said:

Please tap “Click to Expand” on my previous post to read the details.. This will allow you to better judge the next course of action, and what steps to take in your specific situation..
👍

I myself would take the simplest route 1st

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gvan2012CT said:

Here is where I've ended up. I know that the oil level was low when getting close to time for an oil change for the last 2 oil changes, and I mean considerably low (below the lower line). The coolant I honestly couldn't tell you because I hadn't monitored it because I hadn't experienced any overheating issues. The level was supposed to be checked and/or topped off at oil changes, but there was no mention of it by the service techs.

I haven't checked the oil level since doing the work that I've done so far, which is such: pulled intake manifold, throttle body, and egr system and thoroughly cleaned them. There was some oil pooling in the bottom of the intake manifold when I pulled it, and I went ahead and did the PCV valve after having pulled everything else. I've since changed the plugs and ignition coils.

Initial cause of concern was the hard shudder and CEL for cylinder 1. I changed oil and plugs after this and had it reset before having another hard start and moving on to egr work. After doing egr/intake manifold/throttle body work it ran smoothly for first few starts and then had hard shudder once more and CEL came back. CEL was now for a misfire in both cylinder 1 and cylinder 2.

Bought the ignition coils and swapped them and am still experiencing hard shudder with CEL being thrown. Haven't had the codes scanned yet.

I also haven't checked the oil level, which I would assume is still near the top line on the dip stick. The coolant level has remained, but it hasn't been driven more than 10 miles as that sound from the hard shudder sends chills and makes me worry for further damage.

I am curious to know if that drop in oil level has been that significant for you. That seems bizarrely simple.

Click to expand...

Haha_jizzjizz said:

Maybe its just a coincidence. Thats what I'm trying to figure out. But that's the only thing I've done different.

Try this, before turning the car off for the last time for the day, floor the gas pedal until the ice revs for a few seconds, let off and shut the car off. See if it shudders the following morning. Also, do you keep the car outside and is it humid there?

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gvan2012CT said:

How long has it been/miles driven since you made that adjustment?

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gvan2012CT said:

How long has it been/miles driven since you made that adjustment?

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Haha_jizzjizz said:

800 miles/ 3 months

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gvan2012CT said:

Referencing the change in oil level

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MichaelG65 said:

I have been on vacation, still here, just happened to look at my emails..

gap to .041 Nothing is Pre-gapped
Still a bang, a coil is going out, or a fault in wiring or connector at the coil..

Plugs - every 60,000 miles
Not 120,000 miles as dealer manual suggests

That’s it..
Providing your coolant is not disappearing or contaminated, should be okay..

But remember, the longer this Atkinson engine bangs the more undue stresses are implied to the circlip holding the wrist pin.. This holds the piston to the connecting rod..

And please click my name to see my previous posts all over the place, i have detected isolated duplicated and solved the fault, in great detail for all to become fully versed here.. including oil changes and the wrong filter being used by Lexus Toyota now

I do hope to have been of assistance..

##EDIT##
just noticed my 1st response to you had the spark plug gap specs in there, No One reads my posts..

Trying to figure out why “?”

what fires the plug? a coil
what fires the coil? a wire connection
a coil is a manufactured electrical component that can fail right out of the box.. Pull Codes

Having a leak test done and still coolant disappears, without visible detection is a problem.. i’d go back to where the test was done and bitch, because it looks like they didn’t wait the proper time cycle

Check your dipstick look for any brown milky sludge

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gvan2012CT said:

I've done my best to read and remember it all, and appreciate all of the advice and effort. Just been a lot to keep up with, try and run through, and remember what I may have missed or not.

Minor Update: I have to look towards the wiring and coils at this point. Pulled the plugs I bought and they were all properly gapped. Luck, or maybe some truth to the "pre-gapped" pitch. I've purchased 2 coils and returned them for 2 more. Couldn't imagine the luck of 4 straight being bad.

I haven't checked the oil filter as of yet, but I'll add it to the list. Coolant level has remained and is clear and clean since last drive, but I haven't ran the vehicle because I want to avoid that bang as much as possible.

Again, all tips and advice much appreciated.

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MichaelG65 said:

Pull codes, determine misfire cylinder, Swap that coil with a working cylinder, fire it up, you’ll know when to shut down, pull codes, did the misfire Move?? That’s the dead coil.. sorry should’ve posted this easy method..

Can’t really pull all plugs and coils for a spark test, system will disable coil firing.. Can’t leave working plugs and coils in, it’ll bang..

But- for banging purposes, & no code reader, an alternate way-
New plugs installed.. Still bangs..
Have a helper to start stop engine, minimize duration of banging, unclip a coil and start, is it worse?? Shut off reClip coil and on to the next.. the bad coil is the one with No Difference in banging, the good ones will make it worse when disconnected..

Guess you can do this all in one pass
Start and unclip then clip unclip your way across and shut it down..

when found- swap with new

Remember- coils will only fire if there is no fault in clip and wires going to that coil

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MichaelG65 said:

This is a mechanics point of view
although his intentions are willful, and he’s close with thermal expansion, but there is more to the metallurgy..

the Atkinson Cycle engine is already designed with thermal expansion as a Given by us engineers..

it is not a squashing issue..

it is a out of order thermal condition that takes out the gaskets..

If a cylinder is misfiring, for Any period of time, thermal expansion becomes uneven, sanding stretching the head gasket..

this applies to ALL Atkinson Cycle Engines.. Chevy Ford Toyota etc..

Before jumping to “oh it’s EGR then”
this engine management system will Alert the system of Restricted EGR and pop a CEL.. $ave money clean it then..

just make sure to change plugs every 60,000 miles with dirty US fuel and fuel stations.. And throw a bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner in gas tank at a fill-up once every couple of months..

Lucas injector cleaner is the only one without the distillates that rot gaskets

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Mariamg87 said:

I

I have a 2013 Lexus CT200h and just this weekend I began to notice my car when starting it sound like a jack hammer and the engine pretty much made the whole car shake. A little later the check engine light came on and it shows P0302 code cylinder 2 misfire. 2 mechanics have advice to get rid of the car because this requires an engine swap🤷🏻‍♀️ Cylinder 2 we did a test replaced all spark plugs and coils, test drove the car and it continued to have the same problem. Moments later the check engine light came on again

Click to expand...

Mariamg87 said:

I

I have a 2013 Lexus CT200h and just this weekend I began to notice my car when starting it sound like a jack hammer and the engine pretty much made the whole car shake. A little later the check engine light came on and it shows P0302 code cylinder 2 misfire. 2 mechanics have advice to get rid of the car because this requires an engine swap🤷🏻‍♀️ Cylinder 2 we did a test replaced all spark plugs and coils, test drove the car and it continued to have the same problem. Moments later the check engine light came on again

Click to expand...

Mariamg87 said:

I

I have a 2013 Lexus CT200h and just this weekend I began to notice my car when starting it sound like a jack hammer and the engine pretty much made the whole car shake. A little later the check engine light came on and it shows P0302 code cylinder 2 misfire. 2 mechanics have advice to get rid of the car because this requires an engine swap🤷🏻‍♀️ Cylinder 2 we did a test replaced all spark plugs and coils, test drove the car and it continued to have the same problem. Moments later the check engine light came on again

Click to expand...