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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just took delivery of a 2012 model with base 6 speaker radio. Going to upgrade to Alpine SPS-610C front, SPS 610 rear, Rockfosgate P2 8" sub, and Alpine 5ch amplifier. Most components are from my previous car, only the door speakers are new. I like to keep the stock radio, because any aftermarket unit will ruin the integrated look. Plus, bluetooth, usb is all standard on the stock unit, which is enough for me. The Alpine 5ch MRX-V60 amp has speaker level input, with right tuning, is sounds very decent. I have tried Signal processors before, like the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2, but honestly, I couldn't tell the difference. Stock Unit these days all have relative flat response, therefore eliminating the need for extra processor (very expensive).

The whole idea is to create a balanced listening experience that has good volume and fidelity.

After 2 days of Toyota TIS research, I am thoroughly prepared as far as technicality is concerned. I always do my own audio upgrade, so knowledge acquisition is very important in the entire process. It is even more important than the actual doing part in my opinion.

I will post pictures later, but I just want to answer some of the fundamental questions I have seen in this post, hope to help us fellow CTh fans do your audio work in the right direction.

1. Speaker Size: Front 6x9 (adapter require), Rear 6.5", Dash 3.5" (6 Speaker System)
2. Dash speaker can be replaced easily. Pop up the dash speaker panel with a moulding remover, and the speaker is right underneath with two screws.
3. Dash speaker and Front speaker run parallel, signal coming out the the head unit, and split into two channels at a junction connector. I will use the dash place for my tweeter, since the Apline tweeter also run parallel with its own woofer (crossover is built inside of the tweeter), I can use all existing wiring without complicated mod, such as fishing wiring through door, etc.
4. Radio head can be removed easily, the steps are as following:
1. REMOVE NO. 3 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FINISH PANEL GARNISH (for Metal Finish Panel and Urethane Panel)
2. REMOVE LOWER CENTER INSTRUMENT PANEL FINISH PANEL
3. REMOVE UPPER NO. 2 CONSOLE PANEL GARNISH
4. REMOVE UPPER NO. 1 CONSOLE PANEL GARNISH
5. REMOVE UPPER CONSOLE PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
6. REMOVE SHIFT LEVER KNOB SUB-ASSEMBLY
7. REMOVE INTEGRATION CONTROL AND PANEL ASSEMBLY
8. REMOVE AIR CONDITIONING CONTROL ASSEMBLY
9. REMOVE RADIO RECEIVER ASSEMBLY WITH BRACKET

5. Radio head uses same type of wiring harness as all Toyota, Lexus, Scion vehicles, the part number is 70-1761 and 71-1761 for Metra.
6. Door assembly has a lot of steps, I wil be glad to answer any questions after I complete my job.
7. Amp location is best underneath the trunk storage compartment, where the 12V battery is located. I had a Pruis before, it is exact the same configuration, which makes it a lot easier to connect power, no need to punch holes through engine firewall.
8. Again I will post pictures, and share my experience after I complete my upgrade in the next week or two. CT200h is very new, therefore very little knowledge exist in the community. I have always benefited from other's expertise before, therefore I feel the need to share mine this time, and I am glad to do so.

Thank you all and have a wonderful new year!



 

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Hi, i'm looking to do a similiar setup. Was it hard to remove the doors to get to the speaker? Do you have a DIY writeup on that?


Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can give the instruction on how to remove the doors if you give me your email. BTW, door removal is not hard. It is a little tight if you remove it for the first time.
 

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thanks for the speaker info, one questions is there a 12v ignition switched supply in the trunk area by the battery? How will you remote start the amp or is there a remote start supply associated to the speakers becoming live when you switch on the head unit?
Thinking of building a box to sit accross the parcel shelf with 6x9's in with a small amp in the trunk.
I agree the 6 speaker system is a bit weak and not much comes from the back, also runs out of power pretty quick!

Tima
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I did not find any 12V relay wire in the trunk. I used 12V relay from the back of the receiver for remote AMP turn on. I run wire back and forth anyway, this is not extra step.

Trunk Vehicle Auto part Car Subcompact car Electrical wiring Wire Technology Cable management Electrical supply Trunk Vehicle Car Subwoofer Audio equipment Loudspeaker Audio equipment Subwoofer Car subwoofer Vehicle audio Auto part Automotive lighting Auto part Headlamp Vehicle Car
 

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Hi just wanted to say thanks for your post and sharing. I just started installing my system as well a few days ago and the info you had provided was very useful. I also noticed that we similar setup, a 6.5 front, 6.5 rear, 8" sub, and a 5 channel amp to run whole system. Plus we got the same exterior/interior color and I got the Alpine 5ch MRX-V60 amp on my wife's car. Guess we got similar taste. ;) Anyway got a question for you. Noticed that you replaced the dash speakers which is something I did not do. Iam still debating on whether I should replace them, keep them the way it is, or disconnect the signals to it. What are your thoughts? Plus are those the regular 3.5 speakers that you installed or were they smaller? Looks smaller in the pic to me. Thank you.

Btw, very good job on your install. Looks clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks! Great men think alike! Lol. It is fantastic to see similar setup/configuration. How do you like your system so far?

Regarding the dash speakers. There are two options IMHO.

1. Replace it with a tweeter like I did. I used 1/4" MDF board to cut a template, and mounted the tweeter on top of it. The tweeter is directly attached to a passive crossover that is hidden on the other side. This setup utilizes existing wiring, because the original dash speaker run parallel with the front door speaker, so as my new tweeter and front speaker. I think this is the best option because you do not have to modify any trim/board, fish any wire, and you achieve component quality.

2. Replace the dash speakers with aftermarket 3.5" ones. This is the size of the dash speaker, it should be plug and play action. Some people on this forum have used Infinity reference series 3.5" speakers, and they say it sounded good. The problem is that there are only a handful of 3.5" speakers out there, because they do not sound as good as component speakers. Most people buy these speakers for direct replacement, but it would be a better choice for a full component system if you have the option, which you do.

BTW, if you disconnect the dash speakers altogether, where did you mount your tweeter?
 

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Yeah just like SID suggested, I have mounted my tweeter on my front pillars. My car came with stock tweeters so it just seems like the obvious choice to install my new tweeters there. As for dash speakers, if I do get them, Iam leaning towards the JL C2-350x. However, even though Iam confident that this is a quality speaker, just like you suggested, 3.5 speakers do not sound as good as component speakers. Since I already have a quality component speaker installed, Iam afraid that not matter what 3.5 speaker I end up getting, the result would be spending more money and doing more work while actually hurting the overall sound quality of my sound system. That is why Iam thinking maybe I should just disconnect it and not use it completely. Or maybe modify it so that it is only used for navigation.
 

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I was planning on a 3 way setup but that would require another 100w for my system and so I gave up on that idea to keep system power requirement lower. From my past experience, high powered system tends to mess up the car's electrical system in the long run. Plus from what I heard, it is even worse on hybrid cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Do you need new wires for this? Or there are existing wires behind the pillars? My take on this is that anytime you need to fish new wire through the dash is not a easy option.
 

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Actually I didnt need new wires but I replaced all stock wires anyway. All my wire were bought from www.knukonceptz.com My install is not done so I havent heard the how they make my speaker sound but by the looks of it, these are great quality for its price. Here is my wire setup:

Knukonceptz Karma SS speaker 12 gauge wires for all speakers
Knukonceptz Karma SS speaker 10 gauge wires for sub
Knukonceptz 4 gauge 4 channel amplifier kit
Knukonceptz mKs silver for RCA cables
Knukonceptz KonFused 2 way digital distribution system
 

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I can give the instruction on how to remove the doors if you give me your email. BTW, door removal is not hard. It is a little tight if you remove it for the first time.
Sorry haven't checked the forum in a while, i'll pm you my email.

Thanks and it's looking great!
 

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Hello,

I noticed that a few people recommended changing the dash speakers with the 2-way Infinity Reference. This looks relatively straightforward and I'm considering doing it.

However, I had one question first. Someone else posted on this forum that the factory dash speakers are 4-ohm speakers, but I see that the Infinity Reference is 2-ohm. Is that going to cause a problem with the system?

Also, has anyone else tried installing a Kicker Hideaway under either the driver or passenger seats as a sub-solution?

Thanks,
Doug
 

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Simple Audio Upgrade

The upgrades all seem very involved. Is there any one thing that can be done to help the muddy audio. Second Question...if you set one radio station to personal taste, does it set the others to the same, or can you set each station independently?

Love the car, do not love the audio.
 

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Thanks for the pics! My current components should fit nicely where I planned originally.
Planning on fully active DSP system.
JBL MS8, two 300/4, one 500/1, four peerless HDS 6.5's, four vifa xt25, and probably an eminence lab 15 sub. Have all but the sub so far. And of course Second Skin Audio treated front and rear doors. No need for MLV throughout the rest of the car as its quiet enough already. I can't wait to get started!
 
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