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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 CT that I have owned for just under two years. Has 168k on it currently. Let a friend drive as I awas out of town and was near an oil change and asked them to put in a quart to be safe.

They put in a quart of oil additive rather than oil, and a few rough starts plus a check engine light immediately followed. I've put toughly 22k on the vehicle since owning and have had zero issues, and just had the 3rd oil change. I have looked into the EGR threads and am debating if cleaning that entire system is a necessity.

There was maybe 3 rough starts and 40 miles put on the vehicle between the time the additive was put in and getting it to the shop for a system flush and oil change. Code came back cylinder 1 misfire and technician suggested it was probably due to increase in oil viscosity that the motor isn't used to handling and a bit of friction occurring because of that.

Haven't had any issues out of the car and have had zero rough starts prior to this and am wondering if it may truly be as simple as the mistake and increase in oil viscosity, or (after reading a few threads) if I am looking at more significant damage. Also, there is a slight rattle in low idle as if a plate or pan may be loose? Haven't heard that prior, but is also new.

Have started the vehicle and driven 50-60 miles since oil change and there hasn't been a hard start, engine noise (clanking or etc.), or any other noticeable symptom since.

Any advice much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I will add that all fluid levels are normal. Haven't had any issues with heat or anything else. Haven't gone to check the spark plugs or replace yet so I can't comment as to whether or not that is at the core of the issue as well.

Again, thanks for any help
 

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What is the exact oil level now? Just curious. Is it at the top line or near the middle between the lines?
 

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2016 Blue Lexus CT200h F-Sport
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I'd say, just keep an eye on the fluid and if there is any rough movement going forward. It sounds like it was a pretty simple cause of the problem, and direct solution. As for the rattle, I'd double check the oil change work to see if maybe something wasn't put back together very well. Keep an ear out for any sounds from the engine itself, ticking, knocking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What is the exact oil level now? Just curious. Is it at the top line or near the middle between the lines?
Update:

Oil level looks good. Coolant level has remained the same after filling. Pulled the plugs today and the only plug that looked considerably rough was Cylinder 1 and the rest looked as if they had age, but far better than the plug pulled from cylinder 1.

Drove maybe 5 miles today and felt the rough idle/shudder 3 times when pulling from low speeds after a stop. Drove straight home and parked it after and pulled the plugs and haven't had the nerve to move it since. I was halfway through the disassembly when I stopped myself to consider whether it was worth the effort of the full EGR system removal and cleaning or driving to the shop and just paying for the labor.
 

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2015 eminent white pearl
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I want to know the exact level. Like, exactly where on the dipstick your oil is. Please. The code for misfire does not actually mean the coil is bad. They should have tested the coil to find that out so you don't buy parts that you don't need.

Also, try calling gasket masters. They come to you to replace the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I want to know the exact level. Like, exactly where on the dipstick your oil is. Please. The code for misfire does not actually mean the coil is bad. They should have tested the coil to find that out so you don't buy parts that you don't need.

Also, try calling gasket masters. They come to you to replace the gasket.

I haven't gone as far as purchasing coils yet, just went with the plugs. I've checked the oil level twice and it has been reading right at the top line both times. First check was roughly an hour after vehicle had been driven, and second was an hour after that.
 

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Should pull the plugs and check the condition. Was there any noticeable drop in coolant? This may be imperceptible if the gasket is just starting to go. The egr should be done while replacing the gasket, but I don't think cleaning it without doing gaskets is going to fix the problem at this point. I was curious about the oil level because my car had shudder a few times a year since I've owned it (4 years). Only happened after a cold night. However, I did an oil change and only filled to half way between the marks and havent had shudder since. Try having a cooling system pressure test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
After reading through a few threads I decided to check the coolant level, and it was low, but I couldn't tell you if it were a significant drop in level or just because it hadn't be topped off since the last oil change (roughly 7500 miles).


I went ahead and pulled the plugs to have a look, and while I could tell that it had been awhile since they were changed only the plug in cylinder 1 showed significant signs of wear or as if it had fouled. I have only started the vehicle in EV mode since to move it to a spot where it can be easily towed if necessary, but haven't gone that far quite yet.

The pressure test will probably be the next best step before taking the head gasket leap.
 

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I was browsing thru the Prius forums and found some interesting reads. People report knocking and shuddering after cold and damp nights and oil under the throttle body. I think this is how the problem starts. I think the PVC system is badly designed and filling oil to the top line pretty much slowly destroys the engine. Fouled plugs cause the engine to shudder more often and that causes the gasket to give. The more times the car has had prolonged shuddering, the more likelihood of blowing the gasket.

Definitely have the cooling ayatem pressure tested. If you do get a new gasket, install a oil catch can.
 

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I’m in the same boat as you. I purchased the car new and have taken meticulous care of this car. You’re head gasket needs to be replaced. I replaced all my spark plugs and coil packs, didn’t fix the issue. I cleaned out the EGR system and changed the PCV; still no fix. I called the Gasket Masters and they will be here on Monday. They are going to tear apart the engine, replace the head gasket and all the other gaskets, change plugs, oil change and radiator flush, and replace anything that needs to be, all for less than $2000 (and I mean a lot less).
Sucks that this happened, but at least you know you’re not alone. Here’s to another 140k miles!
 

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I have a 2012 CT that I have owned for just under two years. Has 168k on it currently. Let a friend drive as I awas out of town and was near an oil change and asked them to put in a quart to be safe.

They put in a quart of oil additive rather than oil, and a few rough starts plus a check engine light immediately followed. I've put toughly 22k on the vehicle since owning and have had zero issues, and just had the 3rd oil change. I have looked into the EGR threads and am debating if cleaning that entire system is a necessity.

There was maybe 3 rough starts and 40 miles put on the vehicle between the time the additive was put in and getting it to the shop for a system flush and oil change. Code came back cylinder 1 misfire and technician suggested it was probably due to increase in oil viscosity that the motor isn't used to handling and a bit of friction occurring because of that.

Haven't had any issues out of the car and have had zero rough starts prior to this and am wondering if it may truly be as simple as the mistake and increase in oil viscosity, or (after reading a few threads) if I am looking at more significant damage. Also, there is a slight rattle in low idle as if a plate or pan may be loose? Haven't heard that prior, but is also new.

Have started the vehicle and driven 50-60 miles since oil change and there hasn't been a hard start, engine noise (clanking or etc.), or any other noticeable symptom since.

Any advice much appreciated.
Go under the car there is a heat shield that the fastener area rots out over time, so it rattles at idle. Take it off make a large heatshield plate to repair the hole and reattach the shield. Hard to explain unless you look under there. This is common. I made one out of a piece of old heat shield from another car just big enough to repair the hole drill it out to fit the screw and screw it back up there. Did mine three years ago. Salt.
 

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I’m in the same boat as you. I purchased the car new and have taken meticulous care of this car. You’re head gasket needs to be replaced. I replaced all my spark plugs and coil packs, didn’t fix the issue. I cleaned out the EGR system and changed the PCV; still no fix. I called the Gasket Masters and they will be here on Monday. They are going to tear apart the engine, replace the head gasket and all the other gaskets, change plugs, oil change and radiator flush, and replace anything that needs to be, all for less than $2000 (and I mean a lot less).
Sucks that this happened, but at least you know you’re not alone. Here’s to another 140k miles!
If under oil filler cover you don't see
Mayo , and no coolant loss.
Then probably it's a plugged inlet manifold.
Have you cleaned egr cooler? Its critical.
 

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If under oil filler cover you don't see
Mayo , and no coolant loss.
Then probably it's a plugged inlet manifold.
Have you cleaned egr cooler? Its critical.
Yup, I pulled the cooler and inlet and cleaned them until shiny and new. I was really hoping that would solve the issue, but it didn't. I pulled the throttle body and saw that there was a little bit of oil in the intake mani the next morning. Theres probably a hairline crack in the head gasket that's causing a slow leak under pressure into cylinder 1. If the car sits too long theres a little knock on startup. It bothers me enough that I don't want to risk a catastrophic failure. It really sucks that no matter how much you take care of these engines, the head gasket fails.
 

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I own a 2011 and have about 190k miles. My car started shuddering violently so, I changed the plugs and cleaned my EGR. When I removed the EGR it was completely blocked. After, a year and a half my car started to shudder on a cold start.
 

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Yup, I pulled the cooler and inlet and cleaned them until shiny and new. I was really hoping that would solve the issue, but it didn't. I pulled the throttle body and saw that there was a little bit of oil in the intake mani the next morning. Theres probably a hairline crack in the head gasket that's causing a slow leak under pressure into cylinder 1. If the car sits too long theres a little knock on startup. It bothers me enough that I don't want to risk a catastrophic failure. It really sucks that no matter how much you take care of these engines, the head gasket fails.
Have you disconnected the battery
And waited 10 min to clear the memory?
 

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Have you disconnected the battery
And waited 10 min to clear the memory?
To eliminate the oil
I have installed oil catch can.
It might a eliminate oil burning and hence the cooler clog.
I did it half a year ago and noticed,
No more oil in the throttle body
 

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To eliminate the oil
I have installed oil catch can.
It might a eliminate oil burning and hence the cooler clog.
I did it half a year ago and noticed,
No more oil in the throttle body
Any misfires in the morning after catch can install?
 
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