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Discussion Starter #1
This is in regards to the Base 6-speaker audio.

I'm installing my custom made ported 8" enclosure and JL amp today and so far I'm still not sold on Leonar40's location to tap into the rear speaker signals for the sub amp's signal that go to the rear speakers. He did mention that the signal is fairly week and he had to turn the gains all the way up on the sub, as well as use some bass boost which I'm not a fan of.

Short of getting a new headunit, are there any alternate sources people had success with?
 

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I see two choices:
1) run high level into the amp (if the amp can accept high level in) from the rear speaker wires, either at the radio or the rear speakers; that would give it a higher voltage in so you don't have to turn the gains up so high.
Or 2) if you run rca's (if you are using a line level converter) either get a loc with a line driver built in or use a dedicated line driver. That way you can boost up the line voltage to the amps.

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Discussion Starter #3
I see two choices:
1) run high level into the amp (if the amp can accept high level in) from the rear speaker wires, either at the radio or the rear speakers; that would give it a higher voltage in so you don't have to turn the gains up so high.
Or 2) if you run rca's (if you are using a line level converter) either get a loc with a line driver built in or use a dedicated line driver. That way you can boost up the line voltage to the amps.

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Thanks Bill.

I want to keep from using an LOC as the JL Amp I have accepts hi-level which was part of the reason I bought it to eliminate additional components.

Question is, is there a difference from tapping at the headunit, vs by the rear speaker? I'm not sure if there is an amplifier in between the headunit and rear speaker or if everything is just amplified via a built in amp in the headunit. If that were the case, then tapping into signal by the headunit vs rear speaker area wouldn't matter too much since nothing changes in between them. Perhaps a slight signal strength loss due to the distance.

However, if there is a factory amplifier somewhere between the headunit and the rear speaker, then I would have to consider if I want to risk the additional noise factor of getting my signal from an already amplified signal, or if I want to go with the pre-ampilfied signal and deal with running a higher gain on the amp to make up from a weaker signal.

You mentioned you tapped into the rear of the headunit using a wiring harness. Why did you do so? I was planning on just using T-taps to the back of the headunit to the two wires going to the rear speaker. Just want to know if the harness provides a cleaner sound, or was just used to keep an OE/reversible install in mind.
 

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if you have the base audio (no amp) then there is difference if you get the audio signals at the radio or the speakers.

If you have the amp then you're going to have to deal with the outputs at the amp.

I got everything at the radio for a couple of reasons:
1) at one point there will be a kit made for our vehicles, so until that time comes I will have everything I need (rca's, turn on wire) to put the radio in easily.
2) The 60-1761 harness allows me to make my connections without having to T-Tap, crimp, or any connection into the factory harness. If I pull it out there will be no way of knowing that there was anything tied into the system.
 

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Or 2) if you run rca's (if you are using a line level converter) either get a loc with a line driver built in or use a dedicated line driver. That way you can boost up the line voltage to the amps.
This would be my suggestion if you don't have a powerful amp for the speakers. The stronger the signal in, the louder the output for the same amount of amplification. Honestly though it's easier to just get a beefy amp. I may have my amp gain up 100%, but my bass strength on the OEM head unit is only at 2/5 and my bass boost is only at about 20%. So I actually have quite a bit of room to play if I really want to turn it up. So in other words if I had a 150W amp, I might go for the line driver. But with a 300W amp, I'm good. If you want to really bang it, get a 500W amp.

I was planning on just using T-taps
I have never used T-taps but there are many many threads online warning again them as they tend to come loose over time. I use Posi-taps and they have much better reviews. They are also removable without destroying the original wiring. I liked them so much I cut off the t-taps on the illuminated door sills and use posi-taps there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if you have the base audio (no amp) then there is difference if you get the audio signals at the radio or the speakers.

If you have the amp then you're going to have to deal with the outputs at the amp.
Just to clarify since I think you missed a word.

Base Audio = no amp = doesn't make a difference whether it's at the radio or at the speakers.

Also, where are you guys getting your remote turn on from?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This would be my suggestion if you don't have a powerful amp for the speakers. The stronger the signal in, the louder the output for the same amount of amplification. Honestly though it's easier to just get a beefy amp. I may have my amp gain up 100%, but my bass strength on the OEM head unit is only at 2/5 and my bass boost is only at about 20%. So I actually have quite a bit of room to play if I really want to turn it up. So in other words if I had a 150W amp, I might go for the line driver. But with a 300W amp, I'm good. If you want to really bang it, get a 500W amp.



I have never used T-taps but there are many many threads online warning again them as they tend to come loose over time. I use Posi-taps and they have much better reviews. They are also removable without destroying the original wiring. I liked them so much I cut off the t-taps on the illuminated door sills and use posi-taps there as well.
I may just give the amp I have a shot right now. The sub is rated for 200watts peak, and the amp I have is rated at 300wrms.
 

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Just to clarify since I think you missed a word.

Base Audio = no amp = doesn't make a difference whether it's at the radio or at the speakers.

Also, where are you guys getting your remote turn on from?
That is correct...sorry, my mind is going faster then my typing.

You can use the accessory wire off the radio as your turn on. Not too many choices otherwise...the amps will still be on even if the radio is turned off.

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Also, where are you guys getting your remote turn on from?
The Rockford Fosgate amp that I have had a signal sensing circuit that senses the speaker signal to turn on the amp. So I did not need a remote turn-on signal at all. Please read that section in my write-up becuase there are a couple of different settings on that amp. One works great, and the other didn't really work out too well at all. It was much too sensitive and caused the amp to turn on when the doors closed.

The sub is rated for 200watts peak, and the amp I have is rated at 300wrms.
You need to be really careful with your amp gain then or you could easily damage your subwoofer. If your sub is rated for 200W MAX, then it's likely rated for only around 100W RMS (this varies by manufacturer) and so your amp would be 3x more powerful than what your subwoofer can handle if you turn the gain on the amp to MAX.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Rockford Fosgate amp that I have had a signal sensing circuit that senses the speaker signal to turn on the amp. So I did not need a remote turn-on signal at all. Please read that section in my write-up becuase there are a couple of different settings on that amp. One works great, and the other didn't really work out too well at all. It was much too sensitive and caused the amp to turn on when the doors closed.



You need to be really careful with your amp gain then or you could easily damage your subwoofer. If your sub is rated for 200W MAX, then it's likely rated for only around 100W RMS (this varies by manufacturer) and so your amp would be 3x more powerful than what your subwoofer can handle if you turn the gain on the amp to MAX.
Mine doesn't have the signal sensing turn on. I thought it did, but it doesn't. Going to have to tap into something. I remember seeing someone mention something about a black accessories wire. Do you remember which harness that was part of at all?
 

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Ya it's in the original thread where I learned where to tap the rear wires. It's one of the other connectors right near the one with the rear speaker wires.
 

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sorry to bring this back from the grave.. but figured this post hits somewhat of what i'm looking to do. i have 2017 CT with stock head unit. i have a spare 10" sub that i've removed from our dead harmon kardon home entertainment center. i want to reuse the 10" sub for my CT, but from what i've researched the AMP on the sub unit now is rated for home use and will not work directly in the CT. so i'm wondering what kinda of AMP i'll need to get to mount into my DIY box and tap into rear speaker for inputs? prefer an amp that can auto detect when bass needs to be turned on or off. i know i'll still need to run power from battery to the sub with a AMP kit, but besides that, any suggestions? thanks!
 

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sorry to bring this back from the grave.. but figured this post hits somewhat of what i'm looking to do. i have 2017 CT with stock head unit. i have a spare 10" sub that i've removed from our dead harmon kardon home entertainment center. i want to reuse the 10" sub for my CT, but from what i've researched the AMP on the sub unit now is rated for home use and will not work directly in the CT. so i'm wondering what kinda of AMP i'll need to get to mount into my DIY box and tap into rear speaker for inputs? prefer an amp that can auto detect when bass needs to be turned on or off. i know i'll still need to run power from battery to the sub with a AMP kit, but besides that, any suggestions? thanks![/QUOTE

First off, I would look up the specs on the original harmon kardon home entertainment center you purchased, find the specifications, and from that derive how much power the subwoofer was rated for, now for advertising purposes they are most likely going to list the peak power, the highest amount they send to it before things start melting, I would take that value and get an amp that is rated for that same amount, possibly a bit higher and then set the gain on the amp about a quarter to 7/8ths lower so you are not clipping the amp, and not senting total power to the sub on peak hits.
 
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