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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)



Upgraded/Replaced my 2015 Halogens to 2018+ LED Headlights. You can find them on eBay or Yahoo auctions typically close/around ~$2K.
I used the OEM LED Headlight retrofit/wire harness guide by joey to guide me in the right direction in making a conversion harness.

I’ve read various/conflicting info regarding how to wire up the newer headlights, the pin out, differing wiring color schemes between models, etc. so I found that the best way was to figure out the new headlight pin out on my own. I did not wire up the Self-Leveling module (yet) as my stock halogens/chassis wire harness did not have them.
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Bumper Headlamp

Parts used.
  • Lo Beam H11 Male connector x2
  • Hi Beam 5-Pin Male Connector Part #90980-11598 x2
  • Parking/DRL 6-Pin Male Connector Part #90980-11193 x2
  • 2018+ Main LED 8-Pin Female Connector Part #90980-10897 x2
  • 18 Gauge AWG copper wire
  • Terminals with Seals/Grommets
  • Open Barrel Terminal Crimper Molex Plier Tool
Note: If you de/re-pin the stock chassis harness plugs into connector 90980-10897, you won’t need the stock 5-Pin & 6-Pin connectors (90980-11598 & 90980-11193). You can buy most of the plugs on amazon or the Toyota dealer.

There are 7 solid colors (White, Green, Blue, Grey, Yellow, Black, Red) on the main 8-Pin plug on the 2018+ headlights. I started by making an 8-Pin pigtail harness using Female Connector Part #90980-10897. I assumed white & black were ground, then using a voltmeter to verify most of the pin out, then using a 9V battery to see what powered on. If anyone gets a pair, make sure you verify your own pin out (may vary) by using a voltmeter and testing it on your own.

The headlights I purchased did not have the turn signal indicator bulb/socket. The old halogen ones do not fit, so I modified them to work by using a razor blade to trim the socket plug tabs. They fit well, no problems so I did not bother to find the appropriate bulb socket/plug part # for the newer headlights



I took my front bumper off, mounted the new headlights, double checked its function by using the pigtail to plug in the wiring one by one to the stock harness, then measuring & cutting to length, then proceed to crimping on the terminals and placing them in the appropriate parts of the connectors. I haven’t figured out what Grey Pin #4 was for, but my Lo/Hi, DRL, Parking lights all work well without throwing a check headlight sensor indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where did you find these? I can't seem to find any listings on ebay...

The easiest way to search would be to sort from Highest price first so you don't see all the bulbs as much.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Questions. Did you have them imported from Japan? If so then must be RHD. Any issues from the light output or cutoff? I really wanted those headlamps and want the taillights (need the middle part of the trunk to make them fit).
Got them shipped from overseas from eBay. Since they are RHD, I temporarily lowered the beam level so I'm not blinding oncoming traffic due to the cutoff.

I'm going to be doing the taillight conversion as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update 1/3/22
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood


Decided to install the 2018+ F-Sport Fog Lamp Bezels since I’m unsure when my order for 2018+ F-Sport radiator grill(s) arrive. I like the newer/modern weave pattern better, the only downside is that it has a license plate frame on the lower radiator grill. I’ll figure out a proper delete later for a sleeker look. I didn’t like the big faux vents bezels at first, but they grew onto me.
Office equipment Wood Automotive design Hood Rectangle

Automotive parking light Vehicle Grille Automotive tire Automotive lighting

Hood Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive design Automotive exterior

It was a little difficult trying to figure out how to accurately line it up well due to the mounting tabs on the bezel. I found that starting from the inner to outward worked best for me. Lining up (as best I could) the lower mounting holes underneath helped guide me, marked the areas, then used a dremel to make the slots (8-9). I messed up some holes, but luckily it’s all hidden and I’m not afraid of some bodywork. After getting one side done, I taped some paper together to make a template for the slots (used the body lines as markers). Then I flipped that template over to the other side, marked it up, made the slots, test fit, adjust accordingly, then secured it with the retainer clips (x8 per side).
Helmet Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Grille
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for post! I’d love to put those on my 2015.
If I were to order those from eBay how many hours of labor would you estimate it would be if I took it to a Lexus mechanic?
Hmm.. bumper/headlight removal 30-45 minutes, wiring all depends on the knowledge and approach you decide on maybe 1-2 hours. I took longer cause I was constantly checking the wiring, powering them on, before I crimped or even pinned the terminal to the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wonder if the fix for the yellow LED is the same as BMW. With the BMW, you have to open the headlight lens and pop off the plastic LED bar. The bar is lit up by maybe 3 led diodes. Those diodes get hot and when they burn out, they leave little burn marks on the plastic LED tube. All you have to do is get a dremel and clean out the burnt plastic parts off the tube and replace the LED unit. Again, that's assuming the LED strip is lit up the same as BMW.
Great job!
Do you know if drl is fixable? It is half working on my left headlight
You'll have to either replace the entire thing or open up the headlight to replace the broken/damaged parts. I recall a member taking her burned DRL to a shop to get replaced. She was told "That due to a design error, the led is very close to the optical fiber and melted with the heat."

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Rim


I took snips on her video of the headlight
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Vehicle registration plate

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive lighting

Vehicle registration plate Vehicle Tire Wheel Car

Another update ish, I installed TRD skirts, lip, rear diffuser, modified the factory exhaust with functional dual outlets/tips. I updated to 2018+ taillights but I am still in progress for figuring out the turn signal problem (already have LED flasher relay installed without any luck). I’ll likely do another thread once that’s all done to my liking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Off topic: Did you roll your rear fender lips?
I did, my camber isn’t aggressive. About -0.5 all around. Prior to rolling the rear fenders, I wouldn’t noticeably rub on straight away bumps/dips, but turns/cornering I would noticing them slightly rubbing. Front fender liners I cut the parts that were rubbing
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Do these tallights fit a 2013 model? Considering these but have been getting conflicting information on compatibility because of the hatch appliqué panel.


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These taillights will work on a 2011-2020 CT. You just have to make sure you get the hatch garnish as well since it’s different
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hate to bug you, but could you get a measurement of how far that gen2 trd lip extends from the wheel arch before meeting with the 2018+ fog grille? The part where it lays flat on the side of the bumper. I put a big crack in my bumper in that same area as yours(much worse though, extends up the bumper about an inch) and was just going to cover it up with the TRD lip. I know the gen1 trd lip will cover it, but looks like the new one has a lot less material overlapping the bumper. The gen1 lip looks way too dated now imo.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting

like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Could you please send a link with the full video?
It's on the facebook group Lexus CT200h USA group, there's no direct link to the private group video, you can see if this works. You may need to join the group to view.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I noticed that this headlight has no side markings, will it pass the annual inspection?
I suppose it depends where you are located and how thorough your inspections is. I usually only worry about passing smog here in California. If anyone is going to give me a fix-it-ticket or state ref. for anything, it’ll likely be from a very observant California Highway Patrol officer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Been looking for outlets/tips like these for a similar modification. Don’t want to spend on a new exhaust system. If you don’t mind what kind of outlets are these?


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Found them on eBay, here's a link to the exact tips/outlets I bought

As far as the piping, you would only need 2.5" 90 Degree Elbow / Piping, if you're picky then you can get SS Mandrel bends like the one below
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I'm a little curious as to what you did for the second outlet as well, did you just cut a hole into the driver side of the factory muffler or something? I'm trying to retain the factory exhaust sound with the stock muffler, last thing I want is to amplify the sound of a prius motor paired to a CVT
Good question. I’d like to know this as well
I thought there wouldn't be an exhaust note change since I modified tips on the stock muffler. However, there is a subtle deep tone to it. I cut a hole on the other side, fed part of the 2.5" pipe through for the 2nd outlet. There is baffling that goes out the stock outlet, while the left/driver side of the muffler was empty. I do not notice the sound at all while driving, only outside the car when idle. It is very subtle so I do not mind it.
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Thank you for your service once again o7
Now I'm debating doing what you did without cutting the hole, and welding it straight to the outside of the muffler. If I go that route let's all just keep it a secret so I don't get bullied for a fake exhaust tip
No problem. I was thinking of doing that at first, but because the surface is not flat it would've made it harder to weld to shape. That's also another reason why I decided to make it a functional dual/2nd outlet. Simply made a hole, line it up the way I like, mark the edges as a guide to cut the excess off prior to welding.

This looks great. I also wouldn’t mind a deeper idle but not looking drastically change the sound. Thanks for sharing your process with all of us. Really grateful!

P.S. did you weld yourself or take to a shop?
Thank you. I took it to my friends house for TIG welding (overkill/all he has lol). I'm overall happier with the result since the tip's are subtle compared to your typical quad tip aftermarket exhaust out there (better than spending $1K+ IMO).
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I had a quick question about your wiring harnesses on the headlights, I noticed you only have the ground for the 8 pin going to the low beam, I'm guessing that'll work, but if something were to fail on the low beam's connector, or the lowbeam itself failed, the whole headlight would go out? I saw in another pic it looked like you spliced the ground from the 8 pin in two and ran another ground line to the high beam's connector.
Correct, I believe the first pics I had for my car I only spliced only one of the grounds. However for the second set of headlights (sold) I wired both the high & low ground into one going towards the 8 pin connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Hello! Amazing work.
I’m curious. Are you selling any pair of headlights pre wired with the correct harnes
I had a extra set of headlights that I made a prewired harness for awhile ago. I can easily make them again, I might have extra parts to do it too. Just let me know when you get a pair and if needed I can make a harness for you. Depending on where in Europe, there's still plenty of places there that are RHD so just because it's from EU doesn't mean it'll have the LHD "US" cut out. I changed my cut out shield to LHD and noticed that it was stamped "US" vs the RHD cut out shield was stamped "JP"

Hello,
I’m looking for your advice and help.
I’m looking to obtain some 2018+ Headlights and rears. What kind of lights should I look for? I hear buying from Europe are more compatible than Japan? If so what else do I need? I see you previously offered harnesses. If your services are available I’d be happy to purchase.

thank you
 
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