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As I posted (way back I think), EGR Restrictions will pop a CEL, check engine, code, whatever everyone wants to call it.. Save Time and money, do it then.. EGR is a guessing point of view, rather than an engineers point of view, i even explain that..

Look for a break in a wire to coil clip..
Simple- whichever coil you unclip and does not get worse, That’s the Cylinder / Coil / Plug / Wire that has the problem..

I also pointed out a change in our oil filters many moons ago, they removed the upper and lower sealing caps, this changes flow characteristics of filtration, this motor was Designed with certain oil flow, so Walmart has the correct original filter with oil sealing caps, the SmartTec $3

there is a metal retaining clip you must remove prior to cranking off the filter cup, just slides out, and put it Back on when done..

it only takes roughly 30min of or so of banging to take out this little engine, so time allowing it to bang is of utmost importance

most people- continue on driving not knowing it’s banging with start-stop low speed bang here and there, or wait and drive it to the dealer 1st chance they get..

By then, it’s too late..

Every Bang is a smack on the wrist pin circlip.. Every Bang is pressure on the intake manifold.. Every Bang is an out of order explosion in the cylinder head, causing uneven thermals stretching the head gasket..

if you review ALL of my posts all over the place, you’ll see The Details.. I am not some kid playing around for brownie points on a forum..

The only fuel injector cleaner that Works without rotting gaskets with distillates is Lucas Oil fuel injection cleaner lubricant, everything else is a waste of money and harms components..

Distillates flash (just like water contaminated fuel from older gas stations) causing sediments, that fouls plugs over time..

Oh a quick heads-up to Everyone, there is another issue i posted about that No One is considering, and you may very well be experiencing this now.. this Banging also effects the eTrans, TSB has been issued as a Result From letting this engine bang.. I posted Details of this

the stresses involved cause a great many expensive problems..

But there’s still Hope- you are not burning oil, no discoloration of coolant or coolant loss.. it is Possible to have received a dead plug, and plugs are Not Pre-Gapped, ya have to gap them, posted That as well.. receiving a dead coil, if you need to get one, is a strong possibility as is with all electrical component manufacturing..

When you get back up-n-running you may experience vibrations in the eTrans for the remaining life of the vehicle, complain of abnormal vibrations and TSB might be able to alleviate the fault..

it’s best to review my posts Before doing anything, rather than finding out the nickel dime way, but it seems no one reads my posts “?”
 

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Michael, I recently bought a 2012 CT200h from a friend with 193,000 km but was dealership maintained. Based on the service records, injector/throttle body cleaning was done at least one (maybe even twice).

I have not had this knocking, hard starts or rough idling experience. I got the car early March and we have winter here in Toronto.

Do you think throwing in Lucas injector cleaner in the gas tank say once a year would be a good idea?

I am still still waiting for my 14mm thin wall deep sockets and will be replacing the spark plugs soon. I tried with a 15mm and wasn't successful. So no need to worry about EGR valve / carbon deposit as long as a CEL or malfunction light isn't thrown out?

How do I remove a coil? Is it when I take that thing above the spark plug out? I had to put them back since I don't have a 14mm socket. Hoping to get it by end of week.

Thanks for your time and extremely help.
 

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1st up-
i believe your fuel is cleaner than US

2nd-
i Lucas every other month at a fill up
i set a calendar alarm on my phone, every 2 months on the 1st i add Lucas..

3rd-
Yes the coil is onTop of spark plug

4th-
Dealership maintained, they follow the book.. plugs should be changed every 60-65,000 miles here in the US, Not every 120,000 miles like the book recommends.. i explain this and why somewhere around here, burnt ceramics, pitting, swelled threads and such..

in addition- dealerships use the Revised oil filter without sealing caps, i use the Original filter still manufactured by SmarTec, available at every Walmart..

5th-
Yes the computer will pop a CEL on EGR restrictions..

Hope I answered your questions 👍
 

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it’s not a design flaw, it’s a dirty fuel, sediment, water, moisture flaw that fouls out a plug.. i explain in detail this somewhere around here, chatting with someone from the UK..

It’s just more of an issue with the Atkinson Cycle engines.

Atkinson Cycle engines have a very large valve delay, they hang open longer for fuel efficiency.. when a plug misfires on These engines, fuel blows back through the delayed valve cycle and are ignited out of order by another cylinder.. The bang bang..

Tremendous damage can result..
 

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Anyone ever dealt with a similar issue. After pushing the ignition button, there is a strange loud rattling sound coming from the engine compartment. I was able to replicate the noise on two different start ups. After a bit, the engine stabilizes with no rattling. Debating if I should run it to the dealership or tow it.
2012 CT 200 h with 105k miles on it.
What was wrong with your car? Did you drive it to a charade or was it transported there?
 

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Your engine is on its way to throw a rod. That is what mine was doing. It threw a rod and i had to replace the engine.
There is a bad flaw with this engine design.
Exactly — Toyota/Lexus Corporation is has been hiding this common engine defect in the CT200H model, which I believe they decided to quietly discontinue it. Bottom line, Toyota/Lexus must issue a nationwide/global recall for it’s been intentionally and misleadingly ripping off the consumer/public to date. It’s time for all affected/similarly-situated customers/Lexus CT200H owners to file a class-action lawsuit here in the US to compel Toyota/Lexus to pay for all thus-far sustained damages/render us whole. Please spread the word!
 

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Just bought a 2013 CT with 140K miles for my daughter. Drove it 3 days with no sounds or issues, perfect. This morning, she called me saying had a massive shutter when starting. She didn't drive 10 feet and had immediately turned the vehicle off and towed for inspection - rod through the block. Massive hole. Engine done. Haven't had the car a week. So much for being perhaps the most reliable used car you can buy. What a horror story I am in...
 

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Just bought a 2013 CT with 140K miles for my daughter. Drove it 3 days with no sounds or issues, perfect. This morning, she called me saying had a massive shutter when starting. She didn't drive 10 feet and had immediately turned the vehicle off and towed for inspection - rod through the block. Massive hole. Engine done. Haven't had the car a week. So much for being perhaps the most reliable used car you can buy. What a horror story I am in...
Damn. Sorry this happened to you. Wish Toyota/Lexus would address this. Are you going to replace the engine (2-3 grand for used installed)
 

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yeah it's really unfortunate. All CT200s and Priuses with this engine have the same issue, and it's very well documented online. Most people just don't know until it's too late.
 

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I have a solution for the Atkinson engine..

re-degree the valves

if the valves were cycling as conventional, a misfire would blow out the exhaust, rather than being pushed back into the head/intake to detonate..
No more Banging..

This would eliminate a great deal of problems-
-reduction of EGR deposits
-intake manifold gasket
-head gasket
and of course the circlip holding the wrist pin in place, that’s what holds the piston to the connecting rod, the rattling bang bang takes this out..

the efficiency characteristics of Atkinson cycle are at Even Keel operation, and documented as such, it’s actually piss-poor efficiency under any type of load.. In fact it’s Less efficient than conventional cycle at anything other than even keel.. The valve delay assists the start stop cycle, by alleviating the cylinder pressure for rotation to start.. i feel the CVTeTrans to have more than adequate torque to rotate start conventional, especially with enlarged rotary compared to a small standard 4” starter..

I say re-degree to a more suitable load level..

Bring both cams back a tooth or two 👍
 

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I take back some of what I said in that last post, after I started my car to take a computer reading the banging completely came back-WTF!! But maybe worse because now it’s tripping the “check hybrid system” every time I test it for more than 30 seconds. I really have no clue anymore. I did what you said by checking each coil and it banged every time! What are the chances that all of the coils are bad?? Like I said before: brand new spark plugs. I’m going to put the injection cleaner in today, but I doubt it’ll work since the car can barely run without full malfunction. BTW I did just get the EGR opened and lo and behold it wasn’t stuck... maybe the carb cleaner took care of that already... Anyone else think it’s time for a new engine yet?? Unfortunately that’s where it looks like I’m headed.... piece of garbage.
Also, just for more reference: 2012; 174k miles; no leaks; no oil consumption; no coolant consumption, no water in oil. I guess one other thing, as pointed out in one of your other posts-It has an old oil filter that I couldn’t change with the oil because I couldn’t get the housing off. Maybe I should go get a different filter wrench and coils, etc., but after all of this nickel and dime nonsense and the time I’ve put in, I could have had a new engine with 120k fewer miles and been back on the road over a month ago...
You should remove and clean the inlet manifold,
Its quite easy job, if the egr was clogged,
It will be true for the manifold.
Throttle body it's also easy job.
Map maf sensors cleaning? piece of cake for you.
 
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