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Gee what causes this “?”

bad fuel?
carbon deposits?
EGR?
Just a bad engine?

Well, it’s not that difficult if you understand the Atkinson Cycle engine..

sure could consider it as EGR carbon deposits, with the delayed valve timing allowing blow-by.. But EGR systems will pop a CEL on EGR Restrictions. So that’s not it..

i Know i have posted the “why” many times around here, but no one seems to see my posts.. or at least understand them..

-open your hood
-unplug a coil
-start engine, and There it is..

so we Can replicate the issue 👍
Hmmm.. so it IS a plug and/or Coil issue.. who woulda thunk



Less than 30min of banging can take that engine out, do Not let it bang.. So ya have to deal with the issue Now, or pay the price..

well what happens if i let it bang?
Well here’s what you can expect-
1st up is an intake leak at plastic manifold, blow-by pressure takes that out, Then the uneven out of order thermals of the cylinder head takes out the head gasket, and welp that’s more water in the cylinder now stopping the spark plug, so more banging away, and oh let us not forget about that WristPin circlip that instantly gets stressed out all the while it bangs away, that’s what holds the piston to the connecting rod, yea that’s how we throw a rod out the side of the block, it gives out..

I guess I should just Keep repeating myself, over and over and over and over again and again..

Read people
(watch the next post- but I aired up my tires and it’s still banging- oblivious to my posting)

Seriously, i see following my posts people not even Seeing what the heck i posted “?” Frustrating to me..
I take back some of what I said in that last post, after I started my car to take a computer reading the banging completely came back-WTF!! But maybe worse because now it’s tripping the “check hybrid system” every time I test it for more than 30 seconds. I really have no clue anymore. I did what you said by checking each coil and it banged every time! What are the chances that all of the coils are bad?? Like I said before: brand new spark plugs. I’m going to put the injection cleaner in today, but I doubt it’ll work since the car can barely run without full malfunction. BTW I did just get the EGR opened and lo and behold it wasn’t stuck... maybe the carb cleaner took care of that already... Anyone else think it’s time for a new engine yet?? Unfortunately that’s where it looks like I’m headed.... piece of garbage.
Also, just for more reference: 2012; 174k miles; no leaks; no oil consumption; no coolant consumption, no water in oil. I guess one other thing, as pointed out in one of your other posts-It has an old oil filter that I couldn’t change with the oil because I couldn’t get the housing off. Maybe I should go get a different filter wrench and coils, etc., but after all of this nickel and dime nonsense and the time I’ve put in, I could have had a new engine with 120k fewer miles and been back on the road over a month ago...
 

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As I posted (way back I think), EGR Restrictions will pop a CEL, check engine, code, whatever everyone wants to call it.. Save Time and money, do it then.. EGR is a guessing point of view, rather than an engineers point of view, i even explain that..

Look for a break in a wire to coil clip..
Simple- whichever coil you unclip and does not get worse, That’s the Cylinder / Coil / Plug / Wire that has the problem..

I also pointed out a change in our oil filters many moons ago, they removed the upper and lower sealing caps, this changes flow characteristics of filtration, this motor was Designed with certain oil flow, so Walmart has the correct original filter with oil sealing caps, the SmartTec $3

there is a metal retaining clip you must remove prior to cranking off the filter cup, just slides out, and put it Back on when done..

it only takes roughly 30min of or so of banging to take out this little engine, so time allowing it to bang is of utmost importance

most people- continue on driving not knowing it’s banging with start-stop low speed bang here and there, or wait and drive it to the dealer 1st chance they get..

By then, it’s too late..

Every Bang is a smack on the wrist pin circlip.. Every Bang is pressure on the intake manifold.. Every Bang is an out of order explosion in the cylinder head, causing uneven thermals stretching the head gasket..

if you review ALL of my posts all over the place, you’ll see The Details.. I am not some kid playing around for brownie points on a forum..

The only fuel injector cleaner that Works without rotting gaskets with distillates is Lucas Oil fuel injection cleaner lubricant, everything else is a waste of money and harms components..

Distillates flash (just like water contaminated fuel from older gas stations) causing sediments, that fouls plugs over time..

Oh a quick heads-up to Everyone, there is another issue i posted about that No One is considering, and you may very well be experiencing this now.. this Banging also effects the eTrans, TSB has been issued as a Result From letting this engine bang.. I posted Details of this

the stresses involved cause a great many expensive problems..

But there’s still Hope- you are not burning oil, no discoloration of coolant or coolant loss.. it is Possible to have received a dead plug, and plugs are Not Pre-Gapped, ya have to gap them, posted That as well.. receiving a dead coil, if you need to get one, is a strong possibility as is with all electrical component manufacturing..

When you get back up-n-running you may experience vibrations in the eTrans for the remaining life of the vehicle, complain of abnormal vibrations and TSB might be able to alleviate the fault..

it’s best to review my posts Before doing anything, rather than finding out the nickel dime way, but it seems no one reads my posts “?”
 

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Michael, I recently bought a 2012 CT200h from a friend with 193,000 km but was dealership maintained. Based on the service records, injector/throttle body cleaning was done at least one (maybe even twice).

I have not had this knocking, hard starts or rough idling experience. I got the car early March and we have winter here in Toronto.

Do you think throwing in Lucas injector cleaner in the gas tank say once a year would be a good idea?

I am still still waiting for my 14mm thin wall deep sockets and will be replacing the spark plugs soon. I tried with a 15mm and wasn't successful. So no need to worry about EGR valve / carbon deposit as long as a CEL or malfunction light isn't thrown out?

How do I remove a coil? Is it when I take that thing above the spark plug out? I had to put them back since I don't have a 14mm socket. Hoping to get it by end of week.

Thanks for your time and extremely help.
 

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1st up-
i believe your fuel is cleaner than US

2nd-
i Lucas every other month at a fill up
i set a calendar alarm on my phone, every 2 months on the 1st i add Lucas..

3rd-
Yes the coil is onTop of spark plug

4th-
Dealership maintained, they follow the book.. plugs should be changed every 60-65,000 miles here in the US, Not every 120,000 miles like the book recommends.. i explain this and why somewhere around here, burnt ceramics, pitting, swelled threads and such..

in addition- dealerships use the Revised oil filter without sealing caps, i use the Original filter still manufactured by SmarTec, available at every Walmart..

5th-
Yes the computer will pop a CEL on EGR restrictions..

Hope I answered your questions 👍
 

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Thanks so much Michael. Yes you have.

For our 16 RAV4H, do you think it needs Lucas every month or has Toyota fixed the design issue?
 

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it’s not a design flaw, it’s a dirty fuel, sediment, water, moisture flaw that fouls out a plug.. i explain in detail this somewhere around here, chatting with someone from the UK..

It’s just more of an issue with the Atkinson Cycle engines.

Atkinson Cycle engines have a very large valve delay, they hang open longer for fuel efficiency.. when a plug misfires on These engines, fuel blows back through the delayed valve cycle and are ignited out of order by another cylinder.. The bang bang..

Tremendous damage can result..
 
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