Check your oil level, this happened to me twice before. Both times the oil level was two quarts low. I’m just shy of 200k miles now.
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2012 CT 200 h rattling engine noise.
Anyone ever dealt with a similar issue. After pushing the ignition button, there is a strange loud rattling sound coming from the engine compartment. I was able to replicate the noise on two different start ups. After a bit, the engine stabilizes with no rattling. Debating if I should run it to the dealership or tow it.
2012 CT 200 h with 105k miles on it.
2012 CT 200 h with 105k miles on it.
1 - 21 of 39 Posts
Common problem on these and the Prius.
Clean out the EGR system and run some fuel/injector cleaner through it.
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Clean out the EGR system and run some fuel/injector cleaner through it.
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Than
Thanks for the input.Check your oil level, this happened to me twice before. Both times the oil level was two quarts low. I’m just shy of 200k miles now.
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I’ll look into it. I appreciate the feedback.Common problem on these and the Prius.
Clean out the EGR system and run some fuel/injector cleaner through it.
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I’ve had this problem especially in cold temperatures. Either doing a oil change or cleaning out the injector has resolved it. I typically put on less than 3000 miles a year so I opt to do oil change.
<deleted post, duplicate of above>
Your engine is on its way to throw a rod. That is what mine was doing. It threw a rod and i had to replace the engine.
There is a bad flaw with this engine design.
There is a bad flaw with this engine design.
Don’t listen to scare mongering stories like above. There are no design faults and they don’t just throw rods 
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Head gasket is going bad. I just had the same proble with my 2015 ct200h at like 98k miles.
The CT uses the same engine as the Gen 3 Prius .. As with the Prius there was a service action with the intake. There is a lot of information on the Prius forums regarding the problems.
The intake is plastic and has separate pathways for the EGR system -- the pathways can become clogged with soot from the EGR system and cause various running issues. Also the intake can accumulate condensation -- this is often the knock on startup.
Most of the problems are from the EGR system. Exhaust gas is taken post cat and directed through a cooler -- this is a matrix with engine coolant surrounding the assembly -- it then goes to the EGR valve that controls the introduction of these gases through to the intake. Soot from the exhaust clogs the matrix and often gums up the valve ... in the 100k range it's often built up where it no longer flowing all that much ... eventually it will clog everything. We had a fleet of Prius and the 11's with lots of miles started to have the issues.
The fix is to clean every part of the system. In our case since we needed the cars so we could not take the time to clean the cooler and valve -- we replaced the valve and cooler. Cleaned everything else up.
As the system clogs engine performance can suffer --- also as the cooler is coated the gasses are hotter going to the heads ... eventually it stops flowing. We had oil use issues -- I surmise from the hotter gasses going to the head.
Do a few searches -- I have a long explanation in a few of the Prius forums. We had a bunch of the Gen 3's -- all gone now .. but we still have two CT's . They all had the issue -- we never had any head gasket problems ... but many do. all of our went way past 200k
The intake is plastic and has separate pathways for the EGR system -- the pathways can become clogged with soot from the EGR system and cause various running issues. Also the intake can accumulate condensation -- this is often the knock on startup.
Most of the problems are from the EGR system. Exhaust gas is taken post cat and directed through a cooler -- this is a matrix with engine coolant surrounding the assembly -- it then goes to the EGR valve that controls the introduction of these gases through to the intake. Soot from the exhaust clogs the matrix and often gums up the valve ... in the 100k range it's often built up where it no longer flowing all that much ... eventually it will clog everything. We had a fleet of Prius and the 11's with lots of miles started to have the issues.
The fix is to clean every part of the system. In our case since we needed the cars so we could not take the time to clean the cooler and valve -- we replaced the valve and cooler. Cleaned everything else up.
As the system clogs engine performance can suffer --- also as the cooler is coated the gasses are hotter going to the heads ... eventually it stops flowing. We had oil use issues -- I surmise from the hotter gasses going to the head.
Do a few searches -- I have a long explanation in a few of the Prius forums. We had a bunch of the Gen 3's -- all gone now .. but we still have two CT's . They all had the issue -- we never had any head gasket problems ... but many do. all of our went way past 200k
So would cleaning all the parts really good eliminate my coolant disappearing?
Teddy -- I'm afraid not. If the coolant is leaking it needs to be fixed ... if the engine is burning coolant because it getting by the head gasket ... you have to replace the gasket
Change your plugs Right AwayAnyone ever dealt with a similar issue. After pushing the ignition button, there is a strange loud rattling sound coming from the engine compartment. I was able to replicate the noise on two different start ups. After a bit, the engine stabilizes with no rattling. Debating if I should run it to the dealership or tow it.
2012 CT 200 h with 105k miles on it.
as in NOW..!
Do Not let it continue to bang..
Atkinson Cycle engines allow exhaust gas blow-by with the retarded valve timing, with a plug not firing it over saturates the cylinder head with fuel, then flashes out of order with another cylinder detonating the fuel (bang bang).. Thermal Condition that heats the head unevenly, taking head gasket out and explosion pressure takes the intake gasket out..
to Replicate the issue-
Simply unplug a coil, start engine..
Replace plugs Now, and as Stormchaser said- throw a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner in the gas tank
Do Not Run Engine
Do Not Drive
I have 2012 CT (just passed 80K) and the same issue as well.It seems happening more during cold weather when garage temp dropped during the night (19406). I am also seeing this happening more when engine oil had more than 8K miles on it. I had shown dealership similar video clip before, but they could not offer any solution nor giving any warranty-free repair. To me, it could be both the cold and oil life since I normally has oil change around winter. I plan on shorten the change interval (6K or 8K instead of 10K) then see if that will prevent this happen again.
I have a 2013 CT200h with over 100k mileage. After the oil and filter change in 2018 it did the shudder (few days or about a week and a half later) after starting the car. Then it did that couple more times within few months. Since I did the oil change(with proper oil and filter, following the proper procedure) I got worried whether I've done some damage and whether there was a trick to the maintenance job after the oil and filter change(before starting the car). However, it did for the third time after some time of not making the violent engine shudder. I opened up the bonnet while it was doing it and realized for the first time how violent the engine shudder is. Basically it looks like only a one or two cylinders are firing while the other's not doing anything. I turned off the power and turned on again and the shudder didn't come back. It wasn't particularly cold that morning but colder than the average early Autumn day in Melbourne, Australia. So, I'm not sure about the cold weather as the cause of the noise.
I've read posts in this forum indicating the problem is in the EGR system and the intake manifold(soot and dirt buildup over time). I am about to clean up the EGR system and intake manifold as a preventative maintenance for this issue. Hopefully it will prevent the engine from possibly getting damaged because I've read few posts about head gasket or rod blowups in CT200h and Prius.
I've read posts in this forum indicating the problem is in the EGR system and the intake manifold(soot and dirt buildup over time). I am about to clean up the EGR system and intake manifold as a preventative maintenance for this issue. Hopefully it will prevent the engine from possibly getting damaged because I've read few posts about head gasket or rod blowups in CT200h and Prius.
I've had 3 Priuses and 1 CT200h and they have all done this on ocassion. We traded the last Prius for another one at 150K miles, my CT has 108K miles. Doesn't seem to cause an issue at all.
The rattle noise is your engine going out and eventually start to lose water . This rattle sound will get worse. And if you overheated and keep driving the rods will poke a hole in your engine block. I like to tell you the reality of what’s actually going to happen . Either buy another JDM engine or pull the head and resurface both head and block at once.Anyone ever dealt with a similar issue. After pushing the ignition button, there is a strange loud rattling sound coming from the engine compartment. I was able to replicate the noise on two different start ups. After a bit, the engine stabilizes with no rattling. Debating if I should run it to the dealership or tow it.
2012 CT 200 h with 105k miles on it.
Gee what causes this “?”
bad fuel?
carbon deposits?
EGR?
Just a bad engine?
Well, it’s not that difficult if you understand the Atkinson Cycle engine..
sure could consider it as EGR carbon deposits, with the delayed valve timing allowing blow-by.. But EGR systems will pop a CEL on EGR Restrictions. So that’s not it..
i Know i have posted the “why” many times around here, but no one seems to see my posts.. or at least understand them..
-open your hood
-unplug a coil
-start engine, and There it is..
so we Can replicate the issue 👍
Hmmm.. so it IS a plug and/or Coil issue.. who woulda thunk
well what happens if i let it bang?
Well here’s what you can expect-
1st up is an intake leak at plastic manifold, blow-by pressure takes that out, Then the uneven out of order thermals of the cylinder head takes out the head gasket, and welp that’s more water in the cylinder now stopping the spark plug, so more banging away, and oh let us not forget about that WristPin circlip that instantly gets stressed out all the while it bangs away, that’s what holds the piston to the connecting rod, yea that’s how we throw a rod out the side of the block, it gives out..
I guess I should just Keep repeating myself, over and over and over and over again and again..
Read people
(watch the next post- but I aired up my tires and it’s still banging- oblivious to my posting)
Seriously, i see following my posts people not even Seeing what the heck i posted “?” Frustrating to me..
bad fuel?
carbon deposits?
EGR?
Just a bad engine?
Well, it’s not that difficult if you understand the Atkinson Cycle engine..
sure could consider it as EGR carbon deposits, with the delayed valve timing allowing blow-by.. But EGR systems will pop a CEL on EGR Restrictions. So that’s not it..
i Know i have posted the “why” many times around here, but no one seems to see my posts.. or at least understand them..
-open your hood
-unplug a coil
-start engine, and There it is..
so we Can replicate the issue 👍
Hmmm.. so it IS a plug and/or Coil issue.. who woulda thunk
Less than 30min of banging can take that engine out, do Not let it bang.. So ya have to deal with the issue Now, or pay the price..it’s simple-
Hear a bang, Change Your Plugs and throw Lucas Oil fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank
Still Hear it, it’s a Coil going out, or the connection to it is damaged..
Still hear it, it’s Too Late ya let it bang away
well what happens if i let it bang?
Well here’s what you can expect-
1st up is an intake leak at plastic manifold, blow-by pressure takes that out, Then the uneven out of order thermals of the cylinder head takes out the head gasket, and welp that’s more water in the cylinder now stopping the spark plug, so more banging away, and oh let us not forget about that WristPin circlip that instantly gets stressed out all the while it bangs away, that’s what holds the piston to the connecting rod, yea that’s how we throw a rod out the side of the block, it gives out..
I guess I should just Keep repeating myself, over and over and over and over again and again..
Read people
(watch the next post- but I aired up my tires and it’s still banging- oblivious to my posting)
Seriously, i see following my posts people not even Seeing what the heck i posted “?” Frustrating to me..
I replaced my head gasket because it was blown then I changed my plugs and this was the exact same problem I had following that maintenance, so plugs can’t be the issue. I JUST cleaned out my EGR cooler and no more bang. It was 100% clogged. Now 100% clear thanks to a power washer. HOWEVER, I took it for a test drive and the check engine light came on again and has a slight periodic sputter. I couldn’t get my EGR apart because the screws are seized for some reason, but I highly suspect that it’s stuck closed. I’m also going to get a new pcv valve today and a scanner to check the code. IMO this is a whole system issue, not just one thing or the other, but several designs shitting themselves in unison. My scion was more reliable...Gee what causes this “?”
bad fuel?
carbon deposits?
EGR?
Just a bad engine?
Well, it’s not that difficult if you understand the Atkinson Cycle engine..
sure could consider it as EGR carbon deposits, with the delayed valve timing allowing blow-by.. But EGR systems will pop a CEL on EGR Restrictions. So that’s not it..
i Know i have posted the “why” many times around here, but no one seems to see my posts.. or at least understand them..
-open your hood
-unplug a coil
-start engine, and There it is..
so we Can replicate the issue 👍
Hmmm.. so it IS a plug and/or Coil issue.. who woulda thunk
Less than 30min of banging can take that engine out, do Not let it bang.. So ya have to deal with the issue Now, or pay the price..
well what happens if i let it bang?
Well here’s what you can expect-
1st up is an intake leak at plastic manifold, blow-by pressure takes that out, Then the uneven out of order thermals of the cylinder head takes out the head gasket, and welp that’s more water in the cylinder now stopping the spark plug, so more banging away, and oh let us not forget about that WristPin circlip that instantly gets stressed out all the while it bangs away, that’s what holds the piston to the connecting rod, yea that’s how we throw a rod out the side of the block, it gives out..
I guess I should just Keep repeating myself, over and over and over and over again and again..
Read people
(watch the next post- but I aired up my tires and it’s still banging- oblivious to my posting)
Seriously, i see following my posts people not even Seeing what the heck i posted “?” Frustrating to me..
I take back some of what I said in that last post, after I started my car to take a computer reading the banging completely came back-WTF!! But maybe worse because now it’s tripping the “check hybrid system” every time I test it for more than 30 seconds. I really have no clue anymore. I did what you said by checking each coil and it banged every time! What are the chances that all of the coils are bad?? Like I said before: brand new spark plugs. I’m going to put the injection cleaner in today, but I doubt it’ll work since the car can barely run without full malfunction. BTW I did just get the EGR opened and lo and behold it wasn’t stuck... maybe the carb cleaner took care of that already... Anyone else think it’s time for a new engine yet?? Unfortunately that’s where it looks like I’m headed.... piece of garbage.Gee what causes this “?”
bad fuel?
carbon deposits?
EGR?
Just a bad engine?
Well, it’s not that difficult if you understand the Atkinson Cycle engine..
sure could consider it as EGR carbon deposits, with the delayed valve timing allowing blow-by.. But EGR systems will pop a CEL on EGR Restrictions. So that’s not it..
i Know i have posted the “why” many times around here, but no one seems to see my posts.. or at least understand them..
-open your hood
-unplug a coil
-start engine, and There it is..
so we Can replicate the issue 👍
Hmmm.. so it IS a plug and/or Coil issue.. who woulda thunk
Less than 30min of banging can take that engine out, do Not let it bang.. So ya have to deal with the issue Now, or pay the price..
well what happens if i let it bang?
Well here’s what you can expect-
1st up is an intake leak at plastic manifold, blow-by pressure takes that out, Then the uneven out of order thermals of the cylinder head takes out the head gasket, and welp that’s more water in the cylinder now stopping the spark plug, so more banging away, and oh let us not forget about that WristPin circlip that instantly gets stressed out all the while it bangs away, that’s what holds the piston to the connecting rod, yea that’s how we throw a rod out the side of the block, it gives out..
I guess I should just Keep repeating myself, over and over and over and over again and again..
Read people
(watch the next post- but I aired up my tires and it’s still banging- oblivious to my posting)
Seriously, i see following my posts people not even Seeing what the heck i posted “?” Frustrating to me..
Also, just for more reference: 2012; 174k miles; no leaks; no oil consumption; no coolant consumption, no water in oil. I guess one other thing, as pointed out in one of your other posts-It has an old oil filter that I couldn’t change with the oil because I couldn’t get the housing off. Maybe I should go get a different filter wrench and coils, etc., but after all of this nickel and dime nonsense and the time I’ve put in, I could have had a new engine with 120k fewer miles and been back on the road over a month ago...
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