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2012 Fire Agate Pearl
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this as a quick shot in another thread. Deleting and making this the hub centric thread.

I did a full Skar Audio build. 3 TX35's on dash, tx69's in front door with spacers from listed in Leonar40's speaker install thread (leonar40's speaker replacement thread), tx65's in back doors with spacers from same link, and I used the how to here (Factory Subwoofer Upgrade) to port factory sub enclosure and bought a VD-8 2 ohm. All powered by a SKM9005D 5 channel, 900 watt amp.

I removed the factory amp bracket, and put the factory amp on top of the Skar amp with spacers to mitigate heat dissipation. I failed to realize the amp is connected via can bus, and had to spend 240 dollars rebuilding power and input connectors for the factory amplifier.

IF you have factory navigation, the PAC audio AP4-TY11 adapter won't work! Ended up buying an Audio Controller LC-7i and got it all installed finally this weekend.

All amplifier and LC-7i fit under the passenger seat. I need to tidy it up and replace my RCA cables (buying right angle 2ft cables to free up tightness of space), and then I'll get some pics up. The amp alone is a night and day difference! I ordered mine from a different website and saved 20 bucks, but it took like 2 weeks to come in. That being said, I've had A LOT going on and it still sat almost a week before I got to it.

The Skar setup ran me 436.64 pretax. All their orders come with free shipping. Because I'm a few hours north of Tampa, it was overnight for free. Their customer service is top notch!

If you don't have Factory Navigation, but had the 10 speaker system, the Pac-Audio AP4-TY11 is the only thing you need to run an aftermarket amp. It goes behind the head unit and will allow you to mount your aftermarket amp anywhere. IT was the same price as the LC7i, but, there's no splicing of cables like I had to do. It can be found here: PAC AP4-TY11 (ap4ty11) Toyota Advanced Amplifier Integration For

If you have the factory navigation, buckle up..... You're gonna be splicing and getting familiar with the TechDoc. It wasn't bad time wise. Laptop on Passenger floorboard, and predone cables approx 18" (20 of them) with Crimp connectors on both sides for 10, and one side for 10. I used speaker wire, as I had the copper color for positive, and silverish color for negative. The cables used with double ended crimp connectors were used to connect the amp output to the speaker input cable run. The single crimp ends were used to connect the amp output to the LC7i input.

I had issues getting the LC7i to power up. Made my own jumper assembly for all power and it lit off first shot. The tuning can be a bit weird, as I'm still trying to baseline mine, but, I'm far from a car audio nerd.

Now, the part some will love, and some will whine and complain about. Doing the math, power maxxed out for all 3 devices is 77.5 Amps. Factory power input is 67.5 Amps. I don't think I'll ever push more than 60 amps, as I'm not one to ring out car audio, but, I'm looking at feasibility to replace the fuses (2x 30A) for the amplifier under the hood with 40 microblade fuses. I'll keep everyone posted with what I find. I need to tidy up my work and second check measurements for a few other items and I'll have post pictures up and running.

Everyone says the Skar amp runs hot and loud. I can assure you even with me trying to ring power out and not having the Passenger seat installed, it didn't get hot to the touch, and, the fan is barely audible once the fan is installed.

My total on this should only have been roughly 665 plus maybe 20 dollars in speaker wire and connectors. That being said, I'm up another 38.50 for right angle RCA cables (keep everything close without forcing excess bending of connectors). This would put most right at 720. Now, because I prior cut up the harnesses for the amp not realizing the can bus bit, I Was out an additional 220 for fixing the 2 connectors and individual leads for the connectors.

I'm around if anyone needs a brain to pick on this topic!
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